About Laura Thayer

Writing, photography & tales from daily life on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, through the eyes of an American writer and art historian. Currently co-writing a novel with my mother, Sandra Thayer, set on the Amalfi Coast.

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I invite you to explore the pages of Ciao Amalfi to enjoy the beauty, history and traditions of the Amalfi Coast. Can't get enough of the Amalfi Coast? Me either! You can find Ciao Amalfi on Facebook and follow me on Twitter, too. Please email me directly for writing requests or just to say "Ciao!" While I love hearing from readers, please keep in mind that I may not be able to respond to all requests for information or travel planning help for the Amalfi Coast. Explore the archives of Ciao Amalfi for more travel tips and inspiration!

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Spring Blossoms at the Villa Cimbrone

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Yellow Flowers

Spring bursts into bloom on the Amalfi Coast

Spring came a bit late this year, but it wasn’t stingy with its beautiful colors and much needed cheeriness. One sunny day when the internet went kaput I took a ride up to Ravello and headed toward the Villa Cimbrone. I’ve shared photos of a picture perfect autumn stroll through the Villa Cimbrone and a winter walk in Ravello, but I haven’t yet covered my favorite season of the year on the Amalfi Coast. Bright bursts of yellow, electric pink blooms and, yes, there will be wisteria! I try to visit the Villa Cimbrone each spring, but I’ve never managed to time it with the blossoming of the wisteria covered walkways in the garden. This year I was in luck as the much of the wisteria was at its peak. So just sit back, enjoy a cup of tea and savor the beautiful blossoms, garden setting and all the loveliness of spring at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Pink Blossoms Tower

The Villa Cimbrone gardens are the perfect spot to enjoy spring


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Wisteria Walkway

Walking under the wisteria in the Villa Cimbrone


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Wisteria Pergola

The delicious scent of spring on the Amalfi Coast


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Statue

Amidst the spring blossoms


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa CImbrone Wisteria Buds

Hanging wisteria buds ready to bloom


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Terrace of Infinity

Stepping out to the Terrace of Infinity at the Villa Cimbrone


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Statue Terrace of Infinity

No flowers but an infinitely good mustache


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Cyclamen

From the infinite to tiny wild cyclamen


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Wisteria Steps

A wisteria pergola leading down to a replica of Verrocchio's David


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Stairs to Paradise

This may just be the actual stairway to paradise ...


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Wisteria Olive Trees

Wisteria blossoms against the backdrop of olive trees


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Purple Flowers

Not sure what these are, but I wanted to take them home with me.


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Tree Blossom

Perfect spring blossom


 
Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Villa Cimbrone Statue View

Spring colors and marvelous views at the Villa Cimbrone

Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte in Ravello

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Garden Entrance

An alluring garden entrance in Ravello

The Amalfi Coast is made of twists and turns with hidden away staircases, unexpected vistas out to the sea and beautiful spots to discover. If you’re the sort of traveler who likes to wander and explore, this is the place for you! Ravello has two famous villas with gardens you can visit—the Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone—but there are many other lovely spots to discover if you head out to explore the town. Strolling along Via San Giovanni del Toro just past the entrances to the luxe Hotel Caruso and the Palazzo Avino you will spot an arched stone entrance dripping with vines. Peek through the arch to catch just a glimpse of the view and it’s impossible not to walk in to explore the little Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Garden View

The Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte in Ravello

The small grassy garden is shaded with beautiful trees and planted with seasonal flowers. This is a very popular spot for weddings in Ravello since the city hall is just a short stroll away. There are some very well placed benches where you can sit and relax while enjoying the view. “Belvedere” means “beautiful view” – and that’s most definitely what you’ll find here!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Panorama

View from the Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte in Ravello

The view overlooks the Amalfi Coast with the picturesque village of Torello below and Minori and Maiori in the distance. The views here are very similar to what you would enjoy from the five star hotels nearby, but for free! In many scenic spots along the Amalfi Coast you’ll find signs that indicate where famous movies were filmed. There’s a sign at the Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte about the 1953 movie Beat the Devil with Humphrey Bogart and the beautiful Gina Lollobrigida.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Movie Sign

Movies filmed on the Amalfi Coast

The Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte takes its name from a real princess – Marie José of Belgium (1906-2001) who married Prince Umberto, the crown prince of the House of Savoy. Her title after marriage was the Princess of Piedmont, or Principessa di Piemonte in Italian. She became the last Queen of Italy in 1946, and her short 35-day role as Queen consort from May 9th to June 12th earned her the name “The May Queen.” In the 1930s, when what is today called the Ravello Festival was just getting started, the Prince and Princess of Piedmont attended one of the concerts in Ravello, and this belvedere was renamed Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte in honor of the princess.

Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte Gardens Ravello

A view fit for a princess!

Next time you’re in Ravello, take a stroll up to the top of town to enjoy the beautiful views and peaceful garden at the Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte. (Tiaras not required …)


Teeny Tiny Grapes

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Tiny Grapes

Grapes just beginning to grow on the Amalfi Coast

Walking home the other day I spotted the first tiny grapes growing on a lush green vine. Spring has been very rainy this year, and the vines and plants seem to be loving it! Below this grape vine the owners had planted fava bean plants very early this spring, which is pretty common in the area. I’ve enjoyed watching the plants growing and the long bean pods forming. Then one day they’re gone! Probably to make a delicious dish of pasta e fave. Yum!  It’s fascinating to watch out how locals use such small terraces of land to produce so much throughout the year. I dream of having my own small plot of land on the Amalfi Coast one day!

Wisteria in Positano

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Pergola

Under the wisteria pergola in Positano

Spring came late and all at once this year. The villages along the Amalfi Coast went straight from overcast wintry days to the buzz of activity rushing to prepare for the busy season seemingly overnight. The flowers loved all the rain and suddenly burst in bloom last month. Speaking of flowers, that’s precisely why I found myself in Positano one morning last month. With the blue sky and sunshine beckoning, I followed a whim and took the early boat from Amalfi to Positano to see the wisteria. And, my oh my, was it ever a show!

Ciao Amalfi Travel Wisteria Positano Ferry

Stepping off the ferry in Positano ... wisteria, here I come!

Positano is such a dreamy place and so very different from Amalfi. Even I feel like I’m on vacation when I step off the ferry and look up at the colorful houses stacked up the side of the mountain. With the restaurants overlooking the beach and the sun shining, there’s an air of isolation that adds so much charm when you’re on holiday. Boats come and go, but the rest of the world feels a million miles away. It was still pretty quiet when I stepped off the ferry and I didn’t meet too many people while heading to the center of the village just below the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Boughs

Cascading wisteria in Positano

Just at the base of the staircase where you start the climb up toward the church there is a wall that is covered with wisteria vines. The few earlier rising tourists who were out exploring were sitting around the steps or enjoying coffee at a restaurant nearby. The air was filled with the sweet and spicy scent of wisteria along with freshly brewed espresso and morning pastries from a bar just a few steps away.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Buca di Bacco

Wisteria vines meandering up the walls in Positano

The wisteria vines seem such a natural part of the buildings in Positano, like they’ve been delicately draped across the balconies and pergolas to make them even more captivating.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Positano Wisteria

Wisteria cascading down a wall in Positano

The scent of these blossoms was simply intoxicating. I sat down nearby and breathed in deeply, wishing I could somehow capture and hold onto the scent. If you haven’t smelled wisteria before, it’s kind of like vanilla in that it is warm, sweet and spicy all at once. It somehow combines the sweetness of jasmine with the first sunshine after a gloomy winter into a delicate and spicy scent. It’s good for the soul, that’s what it is.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Detail

An intoxicatingly spicy and sweet scent - heavenly!

Close your eyes, take a deep breath and let your imagination carry you to Positano. The sea is moments away, the scent of wisteria fills the air and the sun is shining just for you …

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Li Galli Islands

Peeking over at the wisteria in Positano

I was so taken by the wisteria that it wasn’t until I got home and downloaded the photos that I realized this shot above had the Li Galli islands perfectly framed in the upper left. I tucked one of those purple blossoms right there into my notebook and smelled it all the way home.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Vines

Purple blossoms and red buildings

After tearing myself away from the wisteria blossoms near the beach I started to climb slowly up the narrow passageways of Positano. I could smell these incredible wisteria blossoms before I turned the corner! One deep red building was covered with wisteria, especially one balcony that must have been gorgeous from the inside. Just imagine how beautiful your house would smell!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Red Walls

A moment of balcony envy ...

I kept climbing and climbing until I reached a pretty little piazza with a gorgeous pergola full of wisteria blossoms. I happened to bump into a friend from Amalfi while wandering the streets with camera in hand and he asked what brought me to Positano. I pointed up to the pergola of cascading wisteria we just happened to be standing under.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Pergola

Under the wisteria pergola

“Ah, the glicine.” That’s the Italian word for wisteria. He seemed a bit perplexed why I would come from Amalfi to Positano to see the wisteria, but when I pointed out that it’s simply more beautiful in Positano even the Amalfitano had to agree. It really is something!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Brilliant Blue Sky

Wisteria blossoms against the brilliant blue sky

Every little village on the Amalfi Coast has its own character, and even the weather can vary noticeably from village to village. Positano is nearly always warmer than Amalfi throughout the year and significantly warmer than Ravello and Scala, which are located 350-400 meters above sea level. When I went to see the wisteria and found it nearly in full bloom in Positano it was just beginning to blossom in Amalfi and Ravello. There’s just something about the climate difference that makes it grow better and bloom incredibly in Positano.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Parking

Even the parking area in Positano is gorgeous!

I was happy that the sun was shining and I had the chance to catch the wisteria at its peak in Positano. The petals were just starting to gentle fall, scattering in the sea breeze like a spring snowfall. Last year I missed the best time to see the wisteria because the weather turned bad just at the moment they were at their best. Two years ago I went and had fun discovering the Wisteria Wonderland in Positano. That time I had a picnic and soaked up the sun on the beach, but this time I sat and enjoyed a cappuccino while working on the outline for an exciting project I hope to be working on soon.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Bar

Wisteria with your morning cappuccino? Yes, please!

Yes, this is a yearly tradition that I hope to continue. If you come to the Amalfi Coast in the early spring, the water may still be chilly for a swim and the villages still coming to life after the winter, but if you happen to catch the wisteria blooming in Positano it makes up for everything else!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria and Orchids

Wisteria and orchids in Positano

Like I said, it’s good for the soul.

When Life Gives You Lemons …

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Lemon Pound Cake Recipe Amalfi Lemons

Amalfi Lemon Loaf from The Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook

I suppose if you lived in Georgia life might give you peaches. Perhaps oranges if you call the Sunshine State home. On the Amalfi Coast life really does give you lemons … and a lot of them! They’re stacked up in baskets at the markets and fruit and veggie shops and hanging on the trees just about everywhere you go. The choice of what you might do with the lemons life gives you is wonderfully rich on the Amalfi Coast. You could make limoncello, always a good choice, or you could squeeze it fresh over a salad or fish, make lemon risotto or some good old fashioned American-style lemonade.

I was in the mood for baking recently, and so I pulled out one of my favorite dessert cookbooks. To say I love The Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook is the understatement of the anno. After being introduced to the cookbook from a friend, I stopped in The Hummingbird Bakery in South Kensington (and again in Notting Hill!) in London last March. They had chocolate cupcakes with mint frosting. I was smitten.

Since then I’ve had great success with every single recipe I’ve tried from the cookbook. And, oh, have I tried some! I’ve introduced my husband’s Italian family to the wonderful world of cupcakes and brownies. The cupcakes–particularly the cream cheese frosting–have been a huge it, and the brownies are now specially requested at holidays. Oh, and you should see what happens when you introduce Italians to home-baked chocolate chip cookies! You’d think they were the best thing since chocolate chip cookies. Oh … wait … well, you get the idea.

Since there’s just the two of us and neither my husband nor I are big on sweets, I rarely make dessert except for family gatherings or holidays. Yet I do love the classic lemon cake that is very popular on the Amalfi Coast. Yet, a whole cake is just too much for us to ever hope to finish alone. I’ve been eyeing the pound cakes and loafs in The Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook lately and decided to give the Lemon Loaf of shot since it’s a lot smaller than the recipe I have for lemon cake in a bundt pan.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Recipes Lemon Loaf Ingredients

Making the Lemon Loaf from The Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook

Oh my. Yes, you have to make this lemon pound cake at home. It’s one of those heavens to Betsy recipes that you’ll want to make again and again. I got impatient waiting for it to cook as the house filled with the lovely scent and made my stomach rumble. When it came out of the over and I drizzled the lemon syrup over the top the wait became nearly impossible. When it was finally cool enough to slice, I made tea because everything is better with tea. (I suppose you could have it with coffee, just don’t tell me …)

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Recipe Lemon Pound Cake with Tea

Lemon pound cake and tea ... yum!

Let’s just call this my English twist on an Amalfi Coast tradition! Taking the photos was hard work and was duly rewarded with another slice of cake. Then I snapped a photo on my cell and sent it to my husband promising to try not to eat it all before he came home. Yes, this is one of those cakes that requires photographic evidence.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Recipe Lemon Cake

Yum ... would you like a slice?

I wish I could share a slice of this lemon pound cake still warm from the oven. But the second best is to share with you the recipe so you can enjoy it at home!

..

Recipe for The Hummingbird Bakery Lemon Loaf

Ingredients:

320 g caster sugar

3 eggs

grated zest of 2 unwaxed lemons

560 g plain flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

250 ml whole milk

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

200 g unsalted butter, melted

lemon syrup

freshly squeezed juice and grated zest of 2 lemons

100 g caster sugar

a 23 x 13-cm loaf tin,

greased and dusted with flour

Makes 8–10 slices

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F) Gas 3.

Put the sugar, eggs and lemon zest in a freestanding electric mixer with a paddle attachment (or use a handheld electric whisk) and beat until well mixed.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a separate bowl. Combine the milk and vanilla extract in another bowl. Add

one-third of the flour mixture to the sugar mixture and beat well, then beat in one-third of the milk mixture. Repeat this process twice more until everything has been added. Turn the mixer

up to high speed and beat until the mixture is light and fluffy.

Turn the mixer down to low speed, pour in the melted butter and beat until well incorporated.

Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf tin and smooth over

with a palette knife. Bake in the preheated oven for about 45–55 minutes, or until golden brown and the sponge bounces back when touched.

For the lemon syrup: While the cake is baking, put the lemon juice and zest, sugar and 200 ml water in a small saucepan and bring to the boil over low heat. Boil until it has reduced by half, or until it has a thin syrup consistency. When the hot cake comes out of the oven, pour the syrup all over the top. Leave to cool slightly in the tin before turning out onto a wire cooling rack to cool completely.

Beautiful and easy to follow recipes!

Thank you to Ryland, Peters & Small for allowing me to share The Hummingbird Bakery’s recipe for Lemon Loaf! The Hummingbird Bakery Cook Book Deluxe Edition is published by Ryland Peters & Small at £20.00 and is available from www.rylandpeters.com.