Category Archives: Amalfi Coast

Home Again

Amalfi Coast Travel Welcome Home

Last week I landed back in Italy after nearly a month spent traveling in America for work and to visit my family in Nebraska. (Helloooo early Thanksgiving gatherings!) It was a whirlwind trip with stops in New Orleans and New York City before heading to Nebraska. I found there’s still a wee bit of jazz on Bourbon Street if you know where to go and spent an incredible day wandering through Central Park surrounded by autumnal splendor. But there’s nothing quite like arriving back home on the Amalfi Coast.

Amalfi Coast Travel San Biagio

My husband had been regaling me with tales about how beautiful the weather had been all of November. Sunshine, unseasonably warm temperatures and crisp colors. So when we saw that the weather was going to change at the end of last week, we took the chance – jet lag and a head cold and all – to enjoy lunch out by the water in Amalfi.

Amalfi Coast Travel November

And of course my favorite winter pastime – a stroll long the long pier that juts out into the port of Amalfi. From there you have an incredible view back to Amalfi and the surrounding mountain valley. What I love best about this walk in the winter? Non c’è nessuno. There is no one. Sure you’ll pass a few locals out for a healthy walk, but that’s about it. But it’s basically just you, the water on both sides and Amalfi as the backdrop. Perfection.

Amalfi Coast Travel November Walk

After lunch the clouds started to arrive, which was the first sign of the change of weather to come. But there were still a few people scattered across the beach. The temperatures have dropped and it has been windy and rainy since Friday. Forget about making hay, you have to go to the beach when the sun shines.

Amalfi Coast Travel November Beach

With the Festival of Sant’ Andrea next week, soon Amalfi will take on a festive holiday atmosphere. It felt like I arrived back home just in time to catch the last glimpse of summer before it slips away into winter.

Also posted in Amalfi Tagged , , , , |

Marina di Praia – My New Favorite Beach on the Amalfi Coast!

Amalfi Coast Travel La Praia Beach Praiano

The beautiful little beach in Marina di Praia in Praiano

I think I have a new favorite beach. But shhh … don’t tell Santa Croce. I’ve always like the little cove at Marina di Praia, located between Conca dei Marini and Praiano. The road clings to the mountainside high above the beach and a small access road that’s pretty easy to miss leads down to a tiny seaside village. The beach really isn’t much wider than the photo above, as you can see the shadow of the rocky cliff on the left. But what it lacks in size it sure makes up for with scenery and things to see and do.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praian Praiano Beach

– On the beach at La Praia

Locals call the beach La Praia or simply Praia, and the pebbly beach is the biggest draw during the day in the summer. But instead of being covered with rows of perfectly lined up umbrellas, the beach is mostly covered with boats of all shapes, sizes and colors. I love that! There are umbrellas and sunbeds for rental though, and if you’re planning to spend a day that’s the way to go as the beach isn’t very comfortable for sun bathing. But back to the boats!

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Beach Praiano Sailboat

My favorite boat on the beach in Praia

I had my camera with me when I went to the beach at Praia, and just had to spend some time wandering through the boats and capturing their colors and patterns.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina La Praia Praiano Green Fishing Boat

– Worn boat in Marina di Praia

The weathered wood and chipped paint reminded me of the first time I visited Marina di Praia back in the early spring of 2008 when the boats were being repainted and the stones on the beach were speckled with drops of green, blue, red and yellow paint.

Amalfi Coast Travel La Praia Beach Fishing Boats and Nets

Boats and fishing nets on the beach in Praia

The boats lined up on the beach and the fishing nets covering the wall nearby are such beautiful reminders of the simple life that was once all there was on the Amalfi Coast. It’s still there in all the villages along the coast, but it’s just a little easier to spot in some places. The nets were just fascinating with their colors and different shapes and sizes.

Amalfi Coast Travel Praia Fishing Nets Praiano

Fishing net artistry in Praia

The local fishermen likely though it was a bit nutty how much time I spent photographing this impressive wall of nets. Although I’m sure it’s a fairly common occurrence!

Amalfi Coast Travel Praia Fishing Nets

Amazed by the fishing nets at Praia

Nearby the beach a wide wall was covered with fishing nets. I wondered if they were there because they needed patching and where the fishermen had wandered to. Maybe to the nearby cafe for an espresso before tackling the laborious project.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Fishing Nets

Fishing nets drying in the sun

Just when I thought I had seen all the boats, I found this bright red and blue beauty. What do you think, does red and blue work for a Christmas card this year?

Amalfi Coast Travel Praia Fishing Boat Red and Blue

The color to paint your boat if you want to find it easily in boat parking …

There’s another lovely feature at Marina di Praia that makes it one of my favorite beaches. Starting nearby the beach there’s a walkway carved into the rocky cliffs that leads past some houses and to the famous Africana nightclub in Praiano. The beginning of the pathway leads right under the cliff. Best not to think about it too much and enjoy the view!

Amalfi Coast Travel Praiano Marina di Praia Beach

The beginning of the seaside walkway in Praia

Following the walkway leads away from the beach and west along the rugged coastline. The sunny beach comes in and out of view with the winding of the pathway.

Amalfi Coast Travel Praiano Marina di Praia Beach Walk

Say goodbye to the beach!

The pathway leads right through the Il Pirata restaurant, which has one of the most incredible dining areas overlooking the sea that I’ve ever seen. It’s especially magical at night! As you walk by, take a peek inside since it’s quite unusual having been carved out of the mountainside.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Ristorante Il Pirata

This restaurant is located inside a cave!

Just past Il Pirata you have a great view looking back toward the Marina di Praia beach where you can see how it’s just a small cove in the mountains.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Beach Praiano

Looking back at Marina di Praia and the Il Pirata restaurant

Every single available spot – even the most precarious looking – seems to be taken for swimming or fishing or sunbathing.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Fishing

– A mighty fine spot for fishing

When you’re not looking down at the sea and waves crashing into the rocks, take a look east to see the distinctive Capo di Conca jutting out into the water near Conca de Marini.

Amalfi Coast Travel Praiano Marina di Praia Conca dei Marini

A view of Capo di Conca in Conca dei Marini

If I could stay in just one place, it would be this spot along the walkway in the photo below. That’s one of my happy places my mind travels back to again and again.

Amalfi Coast Travel Praiano Walkway by the Sea

My happy place

Just around another corner sits the Africana nightclub carved into the mountain. During the day all is quiet and the light sparkling on the is far more appealing.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Flowers

Just when you think it couldn’t possibly get any prettier

Back on the beach, wander not far inland from the beach and you’ll find a pretty little piazza with more boats and a whitewashed church that seems like it would be more at home in Greece than Italy.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praiano Praia Church and Fishing Boats

Can I just stay in this spot and never leave?

I couldn’t get enough of this perfect little church with its white facade, teeny bell and strings of fairy lights above the entrance. I peered and peeked but could only get the tiniest of glimpses inside.

Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Church

Don’t you just want to hear that bell ring?


Amalfi Coast Travel Marina di Praia Priano Flower Vase

Sunshine and flowers (and more boats!) in Praia

I love a beach with things to see and do as well as beautiful water and good swimming. That’s exactly why I’m smitten with Marina di Praia. It’s a storybook setting and I want to write the stories that flutter about in the back of my mind as I wander along the sea and imagine weddings and village celebrations in that tiny church.

Ciao Amalfi Marina di Praia Beach 1

– Amazing dining spots at Praia

Of course, you don’t have to go far to find some excellent restaurants in Marina di Praia. My favorite is Da Armandino, which is just a few steps from the beach. So whether you’re looking for a special day at the beach, a great lunch spot or a romantic dinner on the Amalfi Coast, you’ll definitely remember your time at Marina di Praia. Make sure you take that walk along the sea … and tell me what stories you imagine taking place in this beautiful little cove on the Amalfi Coast!

Also posted in Praiano Tagged , , , |

New Live Streaming Webcams of Amalfi!

Amalfi Coast Webcams

If you’re like me and miss the Amalfi Coast all the time when you’re not here, then I’ve got exciting news. The Lega Navale Amalfi webcams are back! They’re not only back, they’re better than before. There are three new HD live streaming webcams located around Amalfi and the images are much clearer than they used to be years ago. There’s even a new webcam, pictured above, that looks down over Amalfi and shows the entire port. Click on any of the images in this post to go to the webcams page where you can watch live. Or click here to see the Lega Navale Amalfi webcams.

Amalfi Piazza Duomo Webcam

After my first visit to Amalfi in 2007, I spent over a year going back and forth as I finished my Masters in Art History in Minnesota. I spent a lot of time missing Amalfi and watching the webcams. It felt like a small connection! With late hours studying at night, I often watched the sun rise over the Amalfi Coast with the webcam (below) pointed toward Salerno. It’s also fun watching the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo from morning until late at night.

Amalfi Webcam Live Streaming

With the live streaming you can even watch the sunlight sparkle across the sea. That’s the stuff travel dreams are made of! I hope you enjoy catching a glimpse of daily life in Amalfi with these new webcams. A huge thank you to Lega Navale for hosting them!

Also posted in Amalfi Tagged , |

Take the Ferry from the Amalfi Coast to Sorrento!

Amalfi Coast Travel Ferry Sorrento

I’ve received tons of questions after I shared my Amalfi Coast Ferry Services post earlier this year, especially about whether or not there would be a ferry service connecting the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento. While there was a delay earlier this summer on the start of the service, it has officially begun. The company Alicost is running the ferry service connecting Amalfi and Positano to Sorrento. I even got my hands on a printed schedule!

Alicost Schedule Amalfi

As you can see, ferries will be departing Amalfi for Sorrento at 11:35 and 16:35, with a stop in Positano along the way. Departures from Sorrento to Amalfi are at 10:30 and 14:45. However, I can’t emphasize enough that you need to check the website or directly at the ticket booth at the pier in Amalfi, Positano or Sorrento for the exact times as they can change from what I have shared here. You can find out more about the departure times, stops and prices on the Alicost website.

Amalfi Coast Travel Ferry Sorrento Positano

The Amalfi Coast to Sorrento ferry service doesn’t have a set end date, but it’s fairly safe to plan on it running through August and perhaps the first week or two of September. Again, you’ll need to confirm that with Alicost to be sure. But I know for many travelers this will save hours of bus rides and make arriving, departing and traveling around the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Peninsula much easier!

Tagged , , , |

Remarkable Ruins of the Basilica of Sant’Eustachio

Amalfi Coast Travel Basilica Sant Eustachio Scala

Along the stone steps between the sleepy villages of Minuta and Pontone in Scala, you’ll find something a little unexpected. Set in a commanding position on a promontory surrounded by terraces of olive and lemon trees sits the ruins of what was once one of the finest churches in the Republic of Amalfi in the Middles Ages. Following the zigzaging steps down, the remaining walls of Sant’ Eustachio keep coming into view, closer and closer, as you approach Pontone. Thanks to a locally run association, you can visit the ruins of Sant’Eustachio, which is beautiful stop on the walk from Scala down to Amalfi.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Church Pontone

This remarkable church was constructed in the 12th century during the peak of the powerful maritime Republic of Amalfi. While Pontone is a frazione, or hamlet, of Scala today, in the Middle Ages all of Scala was part of the Duchy of Amalfi. Pontone was home to the prominent D’Afflitto family who constructed this church and dedicated it to a saint important to them, Saint Eustace, an early Christian martyr in the 2nd century AD. When you step into what was once the nave of the church, it’s hard to imagine the original splendor of this church.

Amalfi Coast Travel Basilca Sant Eustachio Ruins

A pathway leads around the walls of the church where you can stand below the curves of the three apses. Here there are signs of the elaborate decoration, which has been restored in areas to reveal the original structural polychromy. Staring up at the traces of design and architectural details, it’s easier to see that at its height Sant’Eustachio must have been an absolute jewel.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Restoration

Although in ruins, it is one of the truest examples of the unique architectural style that existed in Amalfi during the Middle Ages – a blend of styles with touches of Sicilian, Arab and Norman influences to name just a few. From this spot high above Amalfi it seems a stretch to imagine traders hundreds and hundreds of years ago crisscrossing the Mediterranean. Yet they did and returned home to build beautiful churches and grand homes high above Amalfi.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Architecture

The setting for one of the finest churches on the Amalfi Coast was naturally chosen for its incredible view. The small promontory juts out between the Dragone and Canneto valleys that run down to Amalfi and Atrani. Peeking through the trees you can catch a glimpse of Amalfi down by the sea.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio View of Amalfi

From the tip of the promontory below the ruins the view is breathtaking. Directly below is Pontone, while down the valley to the right is Amalfi and down the valley to the left is Atrani. Look left and you see Ravello sitting high atop its own promontory while to the right is Pogerola, a frazione of Amalfi.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Stunning View

Whether you’re looking at the expansive view or peeking through a window of the ruins to a view across the valley of Ravello, you’ll spend plenty of time just taking it all in.

Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello from Sant Eustachio

Don’t miss walking down into the crypt, which was one covered with frescoes and was likely one of the most beautifully decorated areas of the church.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Crypt

One wall features a painting that is an architectural rendering of what Sant’Eustachio may have looked like originally. It’s helpful for kicking your imagination into full gear before heading back up to the ruins. Just how might the interior have looked originally?

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Architectural Rendering

Now there are only a few traces left to help us figure that out. But what remains is incredibly evocative, as is the entire setting.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Column

If you’re planning a hike on the Amalfi Coast, one of my favorite is the walk from Scala through Minuta and Pontone down to Amalfi. If you follow that hike, do plan a stop in Pontone to visit the ruins of Sant’Eustachio.

Amalfi Coast Travel Sant Eustachio Sign

Also posted in Pontone Tagged , , , |