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Ciao Amalfi

TRAVEL · November 3, 2012

The End of the Season

The empty beach at Lido delle Sirene in Amalfi

Like clockwork, the end of October often brings with it a big storm and an abrupt change in the seasons. One day the beaches will be dotted with sunbathers enjoying the last warm autumn days while holding onto summer for as long as possible and then the next the beaches will be barren and covered with debris washed up from the rough seas. We’ve had a few intense storms pass over the Amalfi Coast recently, and they brought with them the official end of the summer season. During a break in the rainy weather last week, I was out and about and was struck by the sudden change. Where not long ago there were rows upon rows of beach chairs lining the rocky Lido delle Sirene in Amalfi, now the beach is empty for the winter.

Amalfi Coast Fishing Boat Harbor - Laura Thayer
Brilliant blues in Amalfi

The colors were brilliant, even more so after the recent storms. The rough sea had churned up a spectacular turquoise that only shows up after bad weather. Besides the Amalfitans coming and going, the walk along the harbor was quieter than usual. After seeing the empty beaches, the other indication that the season has ended is the empty port. The boats have been loaded up and driven away on big, traffic blocking trucks to safer spots for the winter. Even the docks that are lined with boats all summer long are pulled up to protect them from rough winter seas. They’ll become scenic perches for the seagulls for the rest of the winter.

The Amalfi harbor without boats lining the docks

Perhaps the strangest sight at the beginning of winter is seeing the Marina Grande beach, the largest in Amalfi, completely empty. If you’ve been swimming here during the summer months you’ll know just how odd it is to see it without the rows of beach chairs and candy colored umbrellas. It will look like this, besides the odd group of visitors having a picnic on a sunny day and those rare locals that swim all year round, until next spring.

All is quiet on Amalfi's Marina Grande Beach

The season has ended, but with it another has begun in Amalfi. While it’s different for everyone, for us this is the time for catching up after a busy season – for running all those errands that there simply hasn’t been time to do and for trying to find some much needed moments of relaxation at the same time. The Christmas holidays are around the corner, but for now I think I can use just a little bit of time overlooking an empty beach.

Posted In: TRAVEL · Tagged: Amalfi, Amalfi Coast, Amalfi Coast Seasons, Autumn, Beaches, Costiera Amalfitana, Fall, Life on Amalfi Coast, Seasons, Weather

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Comments

  1. Sandra says

    November 8, 2012 at 15:26

    AH! Amalfi…beautiful in every season. Great pictures…thanks for sharing!

    Reply
  2. Rashmi Hegde says

    November 13, 2012 at 03:49

    Ciao Laura,

    Just happened on your blog and it brings back memories of the most wonderful trip I have ever had – to the Amalfi coast! I was there the first week of October this year and boy was it warm! Thank you for sharing your life and pictures! Nice to hear from a native. You are lucky to live in that beautiful place, which we thought was even more beautiful than Positano! 🙂

    Rashmi

    Reply
  3. Roz says

    November 21, 2012 at 19:37

    I love your photos of Amalfi. We were just there the third week in October and things seemed to be slowing down a bit then. I loved the more quiet pace and atmosphere! I am anxious to return again soon!

    Reply

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My name is Laura and the Amalfi Coast is my passion and my home. I’m a writer and photographer who is endlessly inspired by the incredible beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Welcome to Ciao Amalfi!

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Latest on Instagram

Welcome November! Listen to the church bells ringi Welcome November! Listen to the church bells ringing for Ognissanti - All Saints Day - in #Amalfi.
Happy Halloween! For the spooky season, here’s a Happy Halloween! For the spooky season, here’s a mosaic from Axel Munthe’s house @villasanmichele in Anacapri. It’s a copy of a mosaic from Pompeii that would have originally been seen as something like a reminder to enjoy yourself it’s later than you think (as the old song goes).💀👻🎃
Wishing you a beautiful start to the week! Dayligh Wishing you a beautiful start to the week! Daylight savings time ended in Italy yesterday and I’m loving the extra hour of sunshine early in the morning. Especially with more rain on the way this week!
Early morning end of the season sunrise in Amalfi. Early morning end of the season sunrise in Amalfi. Too pretty not to share!
“I am out with lanterns looking for myself.” —Emily Dickinson

Results: mixed.

But The Travelers by @brunocesarcatalano in Amalfi has been extended to November 5, 2023. I wasn’t ready for them to travel on yet!
This morning I said my goodbyes to Bruno Catalano’s “Travelers” on my morning walk. Tomorrow I’m off to be a traveler myself and they’ll likely be gone by the time I’m back. They’ve been good company, but it’s time for them to move on to their next destination. 🧳
Sunday morning strolling in the sweet sunshine. Sunday morning strolling in the sweet sunshine.
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