When I first started spending time on the Amalfi Coast years ago, I wondered often about where the locals bought certain things, such as plants or any number of household items from sheets to slippers. All those questions were answered the first time I visited the mercato, or market, in Amalfi. Every Wednesday morning trucks arrive in town and set up stalls selling just about everything you can imagine – shoes, clothing, kitchen supplies, fabrics, fish, fruits and vegetables, olives and, yes, even slippers!
Anyone who has ever hiked up to the market in Amalfi, which was located way at the top of the town, will remember the walk. Just when you thought you’d never get there, you’d see a truck selling mozzarella cheese and then the first stalls set up around the next curve in the road. While I was in America last month, an old building near the market area collapsed, and the market was temporarily moved to the long parking area behind Amalfi’s port where it was located many years ago. The area at the top of town has yet to be cleared for the market again, so for the time being it will be held in the parking area in Amalfi.
For visitors to the market, this is a nice change! Before the stalls were located in a narrow road where cars and scooters had to squeeze past shoppers. I’ve been bumped by a car before when I couldn’t move out of the way in the tight space fast enough. Now you can walk along the stalls peacefully, without having to worry about being run over. Always nice!
The market is now located in the part of town that the Amalfitans refer to as “dietro al porto,” which means “behind the port.” This large pier is what defines the harbor of Amalfi, and it’s also one of the favorite spots for a passeggiata, or walk, in Amalfi. So now on Wednesday mornings you can enjoy a stroll along the port while doing your weekly shopping!
Weekly markets like the one in Amalfi take place in different towns along the Amalfi Coast. On Tuesday mornings you’ll find the mercato in Ravello located in the two level parking area below Piazza Duomo. On Thursday mornings the market in Minori is set up along the waterfront. The largest weekly market on the Amalfi Coast takes place in Maiori on Friday mornings, and can be found by following the main road called the Corso Regina toward the top of town. The markets are generally set up by 8am and close down by 1pm. Even if you don’t find anything you need to take home with you, visiting the mercato is a great way to experience a bit of daily life on the Amalfi Coast.