Ciao! I'm Laura.
  • Journal
  • About
  • Writing
  • Contact
  • Home
  • Journal
  • Books
  • Podcast
  • About
    • Writing
  • Contact

Ciao Amalfi

Architecture, Pontone, Tempting Tuesday · May 26, 2009

Tempting Tuesday: San Filippo Neri in Pontone

The city of Scala on the Amalfi Coast is located in the mountains high above Amalfi. Long before there was a road connecting the two cities, there were the steps. About 1,300 people say, but I haven’t bothered to count them. Some things, I have decided, are better left unknown. There are old photographs I have seen of farmers carrying their lemons and grapes in baskets on their shoulders up and down these steps to market in Amalfi. And it wasn’t all that long ago when Scala kids scampered up and down those steps every day to school in Amalfi. I met a man in Scala who said he used to make it down in 22 minutes, a good ten minutes faster than my best time. I wish I had asked him how long it took him to get home going up the steps, which is a trip I have and will continue to avoid. (Why go up the steps when they go down just as well??)

The steps on the Amalfi Coast are a way of life here. When you start exploring the areas around Scala and Ravello on foot, you quickly see how the cities were originally built around the footpaths. The architecture does not revolve around the roads like we are so accustomed to in other parts of the world. That is why you really must get out and climb the steps and explore the cities here on foot. When you take the steps heading down from Scala to Amalfi, you walk right through the atrium between the campanile and the entrance to the Church of San Filippo Neri in Pontone (top photo). Every time I walk through there I have the same feeling of amazement as I ponder the connection between the church, the city, and the neighboring houses. Everything is connected! I always knew there was something interesting to see beyond the closed doors I usually walk past, and two weekends ago I was able to find out during Scala Porte Aperte. How exciting!


Founded during the 12th century by the de Bonito family in Scala, the church was originally dedicated to San Matteo Evangelista. Inside, the little church is divided into three naves in a most unusual arrangement of two low and unevenly spaced arches. The current Baroque decorations were added in the 17th-18th centuries when the church was rededicated to San Filippo Neri. I wish I could offer more information about this change, and about the followers of San Filippo Neri in Pontone during that time period, but there is little that I have been able to dig up at the moment. I chose this church to write about today since May 26th is the feast day of San Filippo Neri. I think the procession and celebrations for the Saint were held last weekend, since I heard church bells ringing in Pontone that I don’t usually hear. Now I know for next year to be better prepared!


You can get a sense of the unevenly spaced arches in the photo above, which gives the interior a strangely compact and slightly unsettling feeling.

If you go through a little door on the right side of the church, you will find a chapel with a large crucifix made in stucco dating from the 14th century.

I found the tile floor of San Filippo Neri surprisingly bright and pretty. I haven’t seen a floor quite like this on the Amalfi Coast. I just love these little surprises you find in each church here!

Down a few more steps on this picturesque pathway and you will arrive in the Piazzetta of Pontone, which has a lovely vista looking down the valley to Amalfi. Stop by this blog next Tuesday and I will show you what is just around that corner!

Related Posts

Tempting Tuesday: Scala Porte Aperte

Tempting Tuesday: Ravello’s Villa Rufolo

Tempting Tuesday: Ravello Festival 2009

Tempting Tuesday: Sorrento’s Surprising Duomo

Posted In: Architecture, Pontone, Tempting Tuesday

You’ll Also Love

Tempting Tuesday: Church of Santo Stefano, Capri
A Day of Celebration in Atrani
Tempting Tuesday: Regata Storica delle Repubbliche Marinare

Comments

  1. KC says

    May 26, 2009 at 11:56

    That is an interesting division of space! I wonder, how do you feel about Baroque decorations (and restorations) of older structures? I’m always disappointed to see buildings that have been “baroqued up,” but I’m a Renaissance specialist with a strong interest in the Middle Ages, so I’m biased.

    Reply
  2. Laura says

    May 26, 2009 at 12:10

    Ciao KC! I would love to walk through some of these churches and see them through your eyes and experience. Church tour church tour church tour! 🙂 The division of space was awkward, and it sort of felt like the rear half of the church could collapse at any moment. I haven’t ever seen anything like that before, and I wonder how it came about.

    I have to admit that I am not generally a fan of the Baroque redecoration of churches. But that being said, there are some really lovely churches on the Amalfi Coast that have maintained and restored the Baroque period decorations to look as lovely as they must have originally. The Baroque here tends towards simple and sometimes borders on tasteful. The Duomo of Amalfi is splendid! Although every time I am inside I find myself wondering what it would have looked like originally. The act of restoration is probably what fascinates me the most, especially what was going on in the 19th century. I have a strong interest in the Middle Ages as well, but even more so in what architects in the 19th century were rediscovering about the Middle Ages, and how it influenced revival styles. (Like the facade of the Duomo of Amalfi.) Fun stuff! Well, for us at least! 🙂 Thanks for the great question. I am so happy we connected! 🙂

    Reply
  3. Anne in Oxfordshire says

    May 26, 2009 at 18:28

    Beautiful photos…the little church looks amazing, thanks for going in this time 🙂

    The walk up looks steep, but I was used to walking when I was in Argegno (Lake Como) our apartment was about 200 feet, above the lake level, had to walk up and down everyday, getting fresh bread etc :-)..and the views were faboulous, if you want to look they are in November 2007…

    Reply
  4. Laura says

    May 26, 2009 at 19:17

    Ciao Anne! Glad to hear you enjoyed the photos. It was so fun to be able to go into all the churches in Scala and Pontone a couple of weeks ago. I always wonder what is behind the closed doors.

    Sounds like you know all about steps!! I will certainly look at the photos from your trip to Lake Como in 2007. Thanks for telling me about it! That is an area I look forward to seeing someday. We are lucky here on the coast and only live about 60 steps down from street level. I would rather have the steps down at the end of a long day out rather than up! 🙂

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Next Post >

“Wind through history on Italy’s Amalfi Coast”

Trending Now

  • ciao-amalfi-winter-things-to-do Visiting the Amalfi Coast in the Winter – 5 Things You Need to Know
  • Amalfi Coast Beaches Colourful Sun Umbrellas at the Marina Grande Beach in Amalfi - Horizontal A Guide to the Beaches of Amalfi
  • Amalfi Coast Webcams New Live Streaming Webcams of Amalfi!
  • Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Beach Spiagga Grande A Guide to the Beaches of Positano

Ciao!

My name is Laura and the Amalfi Coast is my passion and my home. I’m a writer and photographer who is endlessly inspired by the incredible beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Welcome to Ciao Amalfi!

Ciao Amalfi

  • Journal
  • Moon Amalfi Coast
  • Newsletter
  • Contact

Amalfi Coast

  • Amalfi
  • Positano
  • Ravello
  • Amalfi Coast

Explore

  • Travel
  • History & Culture
  • Food & Drink
  • Shopping

Laura Thayer

  • About
  • Writing
  • Book Reviews
  • Work with Me

Latest on Instagram

The final steps to @villalarondinaia where the fir The final steps to @villalarondinaia where the first glimpse of the villa comes into view. Even within the private terraced gardens, it’s remarkably secluded. Walking through the gardens, I couldn’t imagine the great good fortune of being able to write and create here as Gore Vidal did for over 30 years. This is a place that certainly inspires!
Have you ever wondered about that remarkable white Have you ever wondered about that remarkable white villa clinging to the cliff high on the Amalfi Coast in Ravello? This spring I finally had the chance to visit @villalarondinaia - and bit was an incredible experience. Follow the link in my bio for a closer look at one of the most extraordinary villas on the Amalfi Coast!
Hello June! I couldn’t think of a better start t Hello June! I couldn’t think of a better start than watching the sun come up over the mountains in Amalfi. I also noticed that one of the first places the sun hits is the @anantaraconventodiamalfi. ☀️
The blue hour in Amalfi this evening. 💙 The blue hour in Amalfi this evening. 💙
Today is an unspeakably sad day for the Amalfi Coa Today is an unspeakably sad day for the Amalfi Coast after the tragic bus accident this morning in Ravello where Nicola Fusco, a young bus driver only 29 years old, lost his life. Investigations are currently underway to determine the cause and I won’t share the upsetting details. The road to Ravello is currently closed and it’s not clear when it will reopen. Nicola was a kind, talented, and experienced driver—the third generation of drivers in his family—a family very close to ours. My husband has been a guide with all three generations and watched Nicola grow up. This is something that shouldn’t happen, shouldn’t ever happen, but it’s something we all fear here. Our hearts are with the Fusco family and to everyone who Nicola’s life touched. 🖤
It sounds like New Year’s Eve outside with firew It sounds like New Year’s Eve outside with fireworks and celebrations for the Naples soccer team wining the championship for the first time in 33 years. To say this is a big deal for the fans doesn’t even begin to describe it. I’ve been watching videos from Amalfi, Sorrento, Ischia and all around Campania. Here was a quiet moment in Atrani before the celebrations began. ⚽️
Requisite Vespa shot with a twist. Let the 6-month Requisite Vespa shot with a twist. Let the 6-month check-ups begin! 🏥

#breastcancersurvivor #breastcancer #tumorealseno
  • Privacy Policy
  • Site Disclosure

Copyright © 2023 Ciao Amalfi · Theme by 17th Avenue