About Laura Thayer

Writing, photography & tales from daily life on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, through the eyes of an American writer and art historian. Currently co-writing a novel with my mother, Sandra Thayer, set on the Amalfi Coast.

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I invite you to explore the pages of Ciao Amalfi to enjoy the beauty, history and traditions of the Amalfi Coast. Can't get enough of the Amalfi Coast? Me either! You can find Ciao Amalfi on Facebook and follow me on Twitter, too. Please email me directly for writing requests or just to say "Ciao!" While I love hearing from readers, please keep in mind that I may not be able to respond to all requests for information or travel planning help for the Amalfi Coast. Explore the archives of Ciao Amalfi for more travel tips and inspiration!
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Let the busy days begin!

Amalfi Coast Tourist Buses

The parking lot in Amalfi is filling up each morning with buses

If it hasn’t started to get rolling yet, the long weekend for Easter is the official start of the tourist season along the Amalfi Coast. In the days leading up to Easter last week, the mornings were already buzzing in Amalfi. Tourist buses have started to arrive nearly every day from Sorrento, Naples and other destinations. The parking lot in the center of Amalfi reserved for the blue and green SITA public buses and the tourist buses is filling up each morning. And after a quiet winter, the harbor is filled again with ferries to Positano, Salerno and Capri and smaller boats ready to go to the Emerald Grotto or set off for private boat tours.

Ferries and boats in the Amalfi Harbor

Where to? Positano, Salerno, the Emerald Grotto or Capri?

While the warm beach days are still a month or so away, when the sun comes out you’ll now spot a few sunbathers here and there. And, of course, those brave few who don’t seem to mind the cold water!

Swimming Amalfi Coast April

The first sunbathers of the summer season have arrived!

While some people might grumble and groan at these first signs of the tourist season, I like watching the city change throughout the year. We hold our breath for a moment and make a wish that this season will be a good one, for us and for all the families that in some small way take part in sharing, promoting and protecting this beautiful coastline in so many ways.

A Change of Seasons

Over the past week and Easter weekend, the weather has changed from spring to winter and back to spring again on the Amalfi Coast. After a rainy and cold Saturday, the sun peeked out for a little bit on Easter Sunday before another storm came through in the evening. I popped my head outside the window just long enough to take one photo after Easter lunch with family in Vettica. It was a beautiful moment.

Amalfi Coast Rainbow for Easter

As the raindrops started to fall again, it made me stop to appreciate the beauty of spring and the change of seasons. The sunshine breaking through the clouds and forming a rainbow, a gentle rain turning the soil a deep, rich brown, the buds on the plants opening to form bright green leaves – signs of spring that seem to resonate within me more this year than usual. It feels as though a change of seasons is taking place inside me right now as I begin to walk down many new paths, in my relationship with my husband after our wedding this winter, in new writing work that fuels my passions and in a focus on finishing the first draft of the novel with my mother this year. I look forward to discovering where these new paths will lead … and to enjoying the new sights along the way. May this spring bring you new discoveries and many beautiful moments!

Spring Blossoms

Spring on the Amalfi Coast Mountains

This evening I was out folding the laundry while admiring all the spring blossoms that have burst out in the last week. Just when it seems like those cold days of winter will never end, suddenly spring arrives and everything feels better in the warm sunshine. Just yesterday we were trying to remember when was the last time we turned on a heater. A week ago maybe? Windows are open most of the day now, until a chilly evening breeze makes us close them and put on a warmer sweaters. After the time change, I can dry laundry outside again for the first time since last autumn. This is a simple pleasure, but a sweet one.

White Spring Blossoms on the Amalfi Coast

Take a deep breath, the warmth of spring has arrived. It is welcome deep down in my bones. This is the season of coming to life, and I’m waiting and quietly watching to see just what will happen.

A Bird’s-Eye View of Naples, Italy

Flying into Naples, Italy on a clear day is a treat. The airport is located near the city center and the landing flight path often goes right over the Naples. Sometimes it’s too hazy to see clearly, especially during summer months, but over the years I’ve spotted the gardens at the Royal Palace of Caserta, the islands of Ischia and Procida and enjoyed some great bird’s-eye views over Naples. Last week on the way back from London it was a beautiful day with blue skies and a fairly clear view thanks to north winds. I was glued to the window as the plane made a large bank coming into the Naples airport. I caught a glimpse of Ischia out the opposite window and knew soon I would be able to see Capri. As the plane leveled, I squinted my eyes into the blue.

Landing in Naples Airport Island of Capri

The faint outline of Capri in the distance

There in the distance I could make out the faintest outline. My eyes traced the familiar curves of the island from the peak of Monte Solaro down to Capri town sitting in the saddle and over to the sheer cliff dropping off from the Villa Tiberius. The view was faint, but I knew it was there. Not long after I looked down to see the oddly shaped islet Nisida. It is of volcanic origins, which is what created its circular shape and the round little bay that make it so easy to spot from above.

Flying into Naples Airport Nisida Island

A glimpse of the island of Nisida near Naples

It’s fun to try to spot as many landmarks in Naples while flying over on a clear day. That little port there on the right is called Mergellina, and it’s a pretty part of the city overlooking the bay.

Landing in Naples Airport Mergellina

The pretty port at Mergellina in Naples

I try to see how many castles I can spot in Naples while flying over. Below you can see the Castel dell’ Ovo in the late afternoon sunshine.

Castel dell' Ovo Bay of Naples

The Castel dell' Ovo jutting out into the Bay of Naples

And then there’s Castel Sant’Elmo in the Vomero above Naples. Can you spot it below? It was clear enough that I could make out the white facade of the church at the Certosa di San Martino. What a view!

Flying into Naples Castel Sant Elmo Certosa di San Martino

Flying over the Castel Sant' Elmo and Certosa di San Martino

Coming over the centro storico, I always look for the glass dome of the Galleria Umberto I and the green roof of Santa Chiara. Can you find them below? (Hint: The dome is on the right and Santa Chiara is under the wing of the plane.) How many other sites can you make out in the photo?

EasyJet flying into Naples Italy

A bird's eye view over the centro storico of Naples

There were some very large cruise ships in the port of Naples last Monday, but one was exceptionally large. I think gigantic is appropriate. I couldn’t believe how big it looked, even from so high and far away!

Cruise ship in the port of Naples Italy

Now that's a huge cruise ship - even from the air!

As the plane came in to touch down, there was Mt. Vesuvius in the distance. It’s always there to greet you when you land in Naples. It would be more reassuring, I suppose, if it was a dormant volcano. But I’m awfully fond of it nevertheless.

Mt Vesuvius landing in Naples Italy airport

Mt Vesuvius while landing in Naples

What has been your favorite or most memorable experience flying into Naples?

Spring Colors on the Amalfi Coast

Spring beach scene on the Amalfi Coast

The colors of spring are arriving on the Amalfi Coast!

That color there—the intoxicatingly beautiful turquoise—is one of my favorite signs of spring in Amalfi. Now through May, the sea is often the clearest that you’ll see all year long, and the colors are simply gorgeous. Doesn’t it just make you want to dive in? You’d better be prepared though, because the temperature right now is only about 14 C (57.2 F). Brrr! Still a little too chilly for me. But I could sit and stare into those colors for hours!

Amalfi Coast beach in March

Tempting turquoise sea in Amalfi

In Amalfi, the colors of spring are starting to arrive. The pots lining the promenade overlooking the Marina Grande beach are filled with red, pink and white cyclamen.

Spring flowers in Amalfi

A pot of cyclamen along the promenade in Amalfi

Walking around Piazza Flavio Gioia in Amalfi, a bright orange flower on a cactus plant caught my eye. What a burst of color in the spring!

Piazza Flavio Gioia in Amalfi

Look at that orange!

We took a drive to Pontone, a hamlet of Scala, to stop by to see a talented woodworker who had repaired a small piece of furniture for us. While waiting, I noticed this big plant covered in tiny purple flowers climbing up the railing of a house nearby.

Spring Flowers Amalfi Coast Scala

Pretty in purple in Pontone

The smell was sweet and had attracted lots bees along with wandering photographers in search of spring. It certainly was happily blooming in this sunny spot overlooking Atrani below. Does anyone know what this vine is called?

Purple spring flowers on the Amalfi Coast

Do you know the name of this plant?