About Laura Thayer

Writing, photography & tales from daily life on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, through the eyes of an American writer and art historian. Currently co-writing a novel with my mother, Sandra Thayer, set on the Amalfi Coast.

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I invite you to explore the pages of Ciao Amalfi to enjoy the beauty, history and traditions of the Amalfi Coast. Can't get enough of the Amalfi Coast? Me either! You can find Ciao Amalfi on Facebook and follow me on Twitter, too. Please email me directly for writing requests or just to say "Ciao!" While I love hearing from readers, please keep in mind that I may not be able to respond to all requests for information or travel planning help for the Amalfi Coast. Explore the archives of Ciao Amalfi for more travel tips and inspiration!
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Finding Italy in London

Amalfi Coast Cookbook in London

Look … there’s a cookbook about the Amalfi Coast in the Anthropologie on King’s Road in Chelsea!

I’m in London this week enjoying a very a very different landscape than what I’m used to seeing each day. From stone steps and trains of donkeys hauling supplies I’ve come to the urban setting of one of my favorite cities in the world – London. It makes a nice change of pace, and always surprises me that it’s just a couple hours flight from Naples. While the two locations couldn’t possible be more different, I’ve loved finding little reminders of Italy while out and about. Walking by an outdoor pub and overhearing a young Italian guy making a dinner date on his phone, hearing a mother scolding her young daughter in Italian for running too fast in a tiny stationary store or even spotting an Amalfi Coast cookbook by Kate & Giancarlo Caldesi from La Cucina Caldesi Cooking School in London at the Anthropologie on King’s Road. Now there’s a view that looks familiar!

Amalfi Coast Travel Pasta di Gragnano

Pasta from the Sorrento Peninsula

I walked by La Bottega di San Lorenzo on Beauchamp Place in Knightsbridge and spotted pasta di Gragnano, made in a town near Sorrento that is famous for its pasta. I love thinking of the journey this pasta made from the mountains above Sorrento all the way to super chic Knightsbridge. A world away in so many ways!

Amalfi Coast Travel London Italian Restaurants

Italian restaurant Ca’puccino on King’s Road in Chelsea

Of course there are tons of Italian restaurants, coffee shops and gelaterias in London as well. I walked past one called Ca’ppucino on King’s Road this evening and it was full and looked very inviting inside. Although I’m fully immersed in the London lifestyle, I can’t help noticing these little things that remind me of home and bring a smile to my face.

Foto Friday: Up the Ancient Staircases in Amalfi

Amalfi Coast Travel Steps in Amalfi

Follow the suggestion of this little sign to discover another side to Amalfi

Just like all the top travel destinations in Italy and around the world, there are certainly times during the year when Amalfi can be quite a popular spot. But I feel sorry for the people who say things like, “Venice is too touristy” or “Amalfi is too crowded.” Those people miss out on so much. I remember getting lost during peak travel season in Venice, wandering not too far from Piazza San Marco, climbing over bridges and meandering along canals and finding it so utterly tranquil that the local cats seemed pleased that someone had finally discovered the little sunny piazzas they called home. Along with the light gleaming on the golden mosaics of San Marco, this is the Venice that I’ll always remember.

Amalfi is very much the same. Even when Piazza Duomo is teeming with people during hot summer days, all you have to do is wander a street or two into the maze of Amalfi staircases to find a very different atmosphere. You can call it the “real Amalfi,” or whatever you want, but that’s really too superficial of a way of seeing a place. The bustling piazza and shop-lined streets are just as much a part of Amalfi as the quiet streets with laundry hanging in the sunshine and the scent of home-cooking lingering in the air. But, I think visitors should see both sides to feel Amalfi, and I’m most definitely not alone there. Any good local guide will take visitors on a walk through the side streets and up and down the steps of Amalfi. I love this hand-painted ceramic sign that encourages visitors in Italian and English t0 go explore the ancient steps of Amalfi. Go on … and have fun!

Bends, Curves and Checks in Ravello

Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Walk

Peeking through to the Annunziata church in Ravello

There is a staircase I follow often to visit family that leads from the main piazza of Ravello, through and under the Villa Rufulo and past two churches. The first church is the much photographed Chiesa della SS. Annunziata. But my favorite view of it is the one you see above, which is so nicely framed by an arched walkway going down this staircase. Around a few more corners and you’ll spot the undulating roof and bell tower of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Architecture

Looking down on Santa Maria delle Grazie

Last week the curves of the roof and the bends in the staircase as it twisted and turned down the mountainside caught my attention more than usual. Maybe it was because the sun was mostly hiding and the light was a bit odd. (That view can be particularly distracting when the sun is shining!)

Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Churches

Curvy lines and beautiful views

I love the curves of the roof and especially the part above the little window with criss cross bars. It’s hard to know just where to look with the steps leading one way and the lines of the building so smoothly rolling up and down. The eye doesn’t come to rest easily in one place.

Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Staircases and Churches

Feels like walking through an M.C. Escher drawing!

Vertiginous moments like these make it easy to understand why an artist like M.C. Escher fell in love with the Amalfi Coast. (Take a look at some of Escher’s drawings from the Amalfi Coast here.)

Amalfi Coast Travel Ravello Santa Maria delle Grazie

Once colorful and beautifully detailed churches

There are also little architectural details that shed some light on how brilliant and colorful these churches must have appeared when they were built. (Although it’s hard to just how much has been retouched with restorations.) The border around the window above is on the side of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Walking up and down the steps and stopping to enjoy little details like this is what life — and travel — is all about for me.

Foto Friday: The Lemon Trees

Amalfi Coast Travel Lemon Trees

A special delivery of lemons trees

How I wish this delivery of lemon trees was for me! The other day I spotted this cluster of trees waiting to be carried down the steps carefully to their new home on a terrace overlooking the Amalfi Coast and sparkling blue sea. Lucky little lemon trees! Some day I hope to have my own little garden terrace with lemon and citrus trees. But until then it’s fun to think about the excitement of a delivery of lemon trees!

A View to Vesuvius

Amalfi Coast Travel Vesuvius Naples

A view of Mt. Vesuvius from Chiunzi Pass

From the Amalfi Coast there are a few ways to reach Naples, but from Amalfi the quickest and easiest is via the Valico di Chiunzi, a pass across the Lattari mountains connecting the Amalfi Coast to Naples and the surrounding area. From Ravello, the road climbs higher and deeper into the mountains until you glimpse down and across the valley where Tramonti sits divided into a handful of different frazioni, or hamlets, decorating the mountainside. Once you reach the top of the pass and find a round about, giving one final glimpse down toward Tramonti and the Amalfi Coast, a few curves more and you catch the first glimpse of Mt. Vesuvius.

Amalfi Coast Travel Chiunzi Pass

Walk this way …

This massive volcano strikes me as small when seen from the top of Chiunzi Pass. Such a different impression than what you get driving along the autostrada from Salerno to Naples and you come around a curve and see Vesuvius looming in the distance. Here it seems so very peaceful and bucolic. Oh, how looks can be deceiving!