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TRAVEL · May 4, 2015

Here’s Why You Want to Get Lost in Amalfi

Amalfi Coast Travel Tips Duomo Cathedral of Saint Andrew

Standing in the center of town and looking up at the Duomo, or Cathedral of St. Andrew, is an experience you simply have to have in Amalfi. Sure, it can be a bit crowded during the busy season. But, look, did you see that view? Going to Amalfi and not standing in Piazza Duomo is like going to Venice and not seeing Piazza San Marco or somehow missing the Colosseum in Rome. I personally love the people watching in the center of Amalfi, and if I have some extra time I’ll grab a spot on that grand staircase and admire the scene. The next thing you want to do, however, is get lost.

Amalfi Coast Travel Exploring Amalfi on Foot

Amalfi is wonderful place to wander and explore. Pack a comfortable pair of walking shoes and start climbing! You could head in any direction from the main Piazza into the maze of stairways and narrow passages and find something unique. I’m going to take you along on a walk I took recently that lead up above Amalfi to a gorgeous panorama overlooking the Duomo from the other side. Come along!

Amalfi Coast Travel Flower Windowbox

I started at the base of the steps of the Duomo and followed the small side staircase up to the left. Here’s my technique for wandering in Amalfi: If you want to explore, just keep heading up. If you’re worried about getting back to the main Piazza Duomo or shopping street, just head down and you’ll get there. My husband always tells visitors that they’ll end up on CNN breaking news if they actually manage to get lost in Amalfi. And please forget the map. You might miss pretty windows and little moments of daily life if you’re busy trying to follow a map.

Amalfi Coast Travel Steps and Walking in Amalfi

Just keep going up and soon you’ll start catching a glimpse overlooking Amalfi. It’s quiet when you get up higher since most tourists don’t know about this side of Amalfi or don’t take the time to get lost. Yes, there are a lot of steps, but there are also stunning views that not only make the climb worthwhile but are also great for stopping and resting.

Amalfi Coast Travel Hiking in Amalfi Duomo from Above

Now that’s a view of the Cathedral of Amalfi that not everyone sees! Did you recognize it? This was the view I was after on my walk since it had been ages since I had seen the Cathedral from above. I had this view to myself until a few locals huffed and puffed by with their daily shopping. Not a place to live up so high if you tend to be forgetful and have to run to store all the time!

Amalfi Coast Travel Spring Figs

I caught my breath from the climb by stopping to admire the little figs growing and the brilliant green of their tiny leaves. There was no hurry, just me and click of the camera shutter as I fiddled around with settings and took in the view.

Amalfi Coast Travel Fig Leaves

Although I was trying to get to an even higher spot in Amalfi, I must have taken a different turn, because soon the steps were going down again.

Amalfi Coast Travel Steps in Amalfi

Along the way I passed the most incredible garden. I peeked over a gate and saw a terrace of earth tilled in rows and little onions growing. But what made it so special was the panoramic view of Amalfi. Not a bad backdrop for a bit of gardening you could say.

Amalfi Coast Travel Hidden Garden Terrace

I love how nothing is the same in Amalfi. Every doorway, every entrance, every corner is different. It feels old and lovingly personalized at the same time. This curved hand railing with decorative cut out motifs caught my eye. I could imagine running my hand along its smooth surface on the way home.

Amalfi Coast Travel Entrance Steps

The ornate bell tower of the Duomo kept popping up in different places, which was so much fun to discover. Sometimes I’d see it perfectly framed through an arched passageway or turn a corner and find just the top of it peeking over another building. I wondered just how many views there might be of the bell tower in Amalfi.

Amalfi Coast Travel Duomo Campanile

Amalfi can still stop in my tracks so easily. Walking down a staircase with knees just a bit wobbly, I stopped and glanced up. What I saw was the sun sparkling on the sea until Capo di Conca – like it was right there in front of me within reach.

Amalfi Coast Travel Duomo Cross

Did you recognize that cross? Scroll back up and look closely at the first photo. At the very top of the facade of the Cathedral there’s a cross. This is the same cross but from behind! I ended up back in the main piazza and took a good look up at the facade of the Cathedral again. I love how a change of perspective changes the way you see.

Amalfi Coast Travel Duomo of Amalfi Saint Andrew

The next time you’re in Amalfi, I encourage you to spend some time getting lost. Even if you’re not up to many steps, you’ll find some interesting passageways and tiny piazzas to discover. The journey of wandering among the steps of Amalfi to find them is just the beginning of the fun!

Posted In: TRAVEL · Tagged: Amalfi Coast See & Do, Cathedral of Saint Andrew, Duomo of Amalfi, Hiking in Amalfi, Hiking on the Amalfi Coast, Panoramic Views of Amalfi, Spring on the Amalfi Coast, Walking in Amalfi

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Comments

  1. Denise G says

    May 4, 2015 at 14:13

    Beautiful, as always, Laura! We will be in Amalfi at the end of the month and can’t wait!

    Reply
    • Laura Thayer says

      May 5, 2015 at 17:01

      That will be here before you know it! Have a wonderful time, Denise!

      Reply
  2. Rebekah DeLibro says

    May 4, 2015 at 15:34

    Beautiful! I would take this walk every week if I lived here!!

    Reply
    • Laura Thayer says

      May 5, 2015 at 17:03

      That sounds like an excellent idea, Rebekah! 🙂

      Reply
  3. Sandra says

    May 4, 2015 at 16:28

    What a wonderful and inviting article, and the photos are gorgeous! I want to get lost in Amalfi again very soon. Thank you, Laura, for sharing your beautiful adventures!

    Reply
    • Laura Thayer says

      May 5, 2015 at 17:03

      There’s no one I’d rather get lost with in Amalfi than you!

      Reply
  4. Karen Mills says

    May 4, 2015 at 20:12

    I will be going to Amalfi at the end of May for a belated honeymoon. It looks just as romantic as I’ve imagined! I can’t wait. Love the photos!

    Reply
    • Laura Thayer says

      May 5, 2015 at 17:02

      Congrats, Karen! This is such a lovely time of year here. Have a beautiful trip!

      Reply
  5. KareninCalabria says

    May 5, 2015 at 20:20

    Wow! Gorgeous pictures and thanks for demonstrating how the scenery can so drastically change at every turn. Good advice about setting the map aside.

    Reply
    • Laura Thayer says

      May 10, 2015 at 08:57

      Ciao Karen! There is so much to discover about Amalfi – or really any town in Italy – and my favorite way is setting aside the map for sure. 🙂

      Reply
  6. Carmelo Peci says

    May 9, 2015 at 00:08

    Love the stories. Love the photography’s. Must be a popular time of the year! We’ll be there end of May too. Amalfi, Ravello here we come!!

    Reply
    • Laura Thayer says

      May 10, 2015 at 09:04

      Hi Carmelo! The end of May and beginning of June is my favorite time of year on the Amalfi Coast. Have a wonderful visit!

      Reply
  7. Carmelo Peci says

    May 9, 2015 at 00:09

    From Perth, Western Australia

    Reply

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Book Review | Italy Explained: Italian Trains by Jessica Spiegel

Ciao!

My name is Laura and the Amalfi Coast is my passion and my home. I’m a writer and photographer who is endlessly inspired by the incredible beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Welcome to Ciao Amalfi!

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Celebrating Independent Bookstore Day with a newsl Celebrating Independent Bookstore Day with a newsletter inspired in part by this beautiful song by @samantha_whates & @mgboultermusic. While I could never decide on just seven bookshops for my whole life, I’m sharing about seven remarkable indie bookshops I visited earlier this month in Bath and London. The link is in my bio, but swipe through the photos here for a look inside - each bookshop is tagged if they’re on Instagram. But definitely give them all a follow: 
@persephonebooks 
@mrbsemporium 
@toppingsbath 
@sherlockandpages 
@huntingravenbooks 
@hatchardspiccadilly 
@lrbbookshop 

Long live the independent bookshops! 📚
Thanks Amalfi … I needed a little reminder of th Thanks Amalfi … I needed a little reminder of that this morning. 🩶
Magic to watch the reflections dancing on the wate Magic to watch the reflections dancing on the water. Magic when they’re frozen in time. Just so much magic all around. I could spend a long time in moments like these. ✨
While it’s been a beautiful Easter Sunday in Ama While it’s been a beautiful Easter Sunday in Amalfi, I’m still processing all of the incredible experiences from my trip to England last week. And, thanks to “Square Haunting” by @francescawade, I am still very much haunting the streets and squares of London. Her book opens with this marvelous quotation from Virginia Woolf’s diary written 100 years ago today on April 20, 1925 (photo 1). It captures just what it felt like I was doing days ago - including a saunter through Bloomsbury Square (photo 2). Diving into this book over the weekend has felt like I’ve been able to linger even longer in those rare April days of spring blooms and blue skies in London. 

This book caught my eye immediately at the ever so charming @sherlockandpages in Frome (photos 4 & 5). How could it not when it was surrounded my one of my all time favorite books (“Letters to Camondo” by @edmunddewaal) and one of the best books I read last year (“All the Beauty in the World: The Metropolitan Museum of Art and Me” by @patrickbringley)?

Hope that your Easter weekend has been a lovely one - with a little bit of “street sauntering & square haunting” wherever you may be!
Just had an unforgettable spring day visiting the Just had an unforgettable spring day visiting the Jane Austen House in Chawton as an early birthday present for myself.(Quite a bit early as it’s not until June.) But earlier this year I decided to have a Jane Austen theme for the year, especially since 2025 marks the 250th anniversary of Jane Austen’s birth in 1775. I do love a theme! Seeing the place where she wrote all of her novels, her tiny twelve-sided writing table, a quilt she made, and sitting in the garden listening to the birds sing is altogether something I’ll never forget. ✍️
Watching the colors of the sea and the fish swimmi Watching the colors of the sea and the fish swimming and thinking of the deep connections of old friends. And this poem by Mary Oliver. Hold tight to the friends who always find a way to say “Look!” and laugh in astonishment.

Mysteries, Yes 
— by Mary Oliver

Truly, we live with mysteries too marvelous
to be understood.

How grass can be nourishing in the
mouths of the lambs.
How rivers and stones are forever
in allegiance with gravity
while we ourselves dream of rising.
How two hands touch and the bonds will
never be broken.
How people come, from delight or the
scars of damage,
to the comfort of a poem.

Let me keep my distance, always, from those
who think they have the answers.

Let me keep company always with those who say
“Look!” and laugh in astonishment,
and bow their heads.
Mary Oliver wrote in a poem that “happiness isn’t a town on a map.” But when the little bit of wisteria blooms in Amalfi, I’m not so sure. 💜
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