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Conca dei Marini, Tempting Tuesday · April 14, 2009

Tempting Tuesday: Conca dei Marini in the Springtime

For reasons I can’t quite describe, Conca dei Marini has always been one of my favorite places on the Amalfi Coast. It is beautiful and peaceful, and yet is located just 4 kilometers west of a the much more active and bustling Amalfi. There are lovely churches in Conca, as well as the little cove you can see above, which is still guarded over by the ruins of a Norman watchtower. Just about a year ago, when I took that photo, I had just smelled almond blossoms for the first time. What a heavenly scent! Spring is certainly a wonderful time to be on the Amalfi Coast.

Conca dei Marini is also home to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, or the Emerald Grotto, named after the striking emerald color of the sea water. Many tourist buses stop above the Grotto, where you can take an elevator or steps down to the entrance of the cave. From there you walk into the cave and climb into little boats that row you around inside. It is beautiful, but one visit is enough. I think it is really the first place I have found on the Amalfi Coast that really felt purely touristy, but in a Disney World sort of way. But it is very beautiful inside! Here are a couple of videos I found in the archives:

Located under the rippling water is a ceramic presepe, or nativity scene, which you can see in this following video:

If you are planning a visit to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a fun way to arrive is by boat from Amalfi. The Coop Sant’Andrea runs a morning and afternoon boat that costs about 10 euros. Entrance to the Grotto will cost you about 5 euros, and round trip by boat the visit will take about an hour and a half. Stop by one of the nearby beaches, such as Santa Croce or Duoglio, on your way back to Amalfi to make it a perfect day!

Have to been to Conca dei Marini or the Grotta dello Smeraldo? Travel thoughts?

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Comments

  1. Lola says

    April 16, 2009 at 01:14

    Excellent Laura, grazie. The video of the grotta is a great idea, photos just can’t cut the reality of those fluorescent colors.

    Did you ever swim in there? I did. I went off season and corrupted one of the guys there, promising I’d skinny dip if he let me slip in the water. I didn’t, obviously. It was awesome. And kinda scary.

    Ciao and HURRY BACK.

    Reply
  2. Laura says

    April 16, 2009 at 01:23

    Ciao Lola! Grazie! What a devilishly good idea! 😉 No, I haven’t been swimming in the grotto, but it really must have been amazing. The colors are just astounding, and I was surprised that the video captured even a little of the feeling. Hum, I know what I am doing next winter!

    Reply

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La Pasquetta in Italy

Ciao!

My name is Laura and the Amalfi Coast is my passion and my home. I’m a writer and photographer who is endlessly inspired by the incredible beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Welcome to Ciao Amalfi!

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This month’s newsletter continues the travels in This month’s newsletter continues the travels in Italy with American poet H.W. Longfellow in 1828 as he made his way down to Naples. Plus a look at Grand Tour volcano tourism and a bonus of 19th-century tips for now not to be a tourist. Link in bio!
Mmmhmm autumn is definitely my favorite season. 🧡 This morning I woke up a bit earlier than my alarm and looked outside somewhat perplexed. The entire sky, the town—everything—had a burnt orange hue. A hurried lacing up of the shoes and still bleary eyed, but I just had to see it better for myself. It was a glorious sunrise. Now the rain has just gently started falling and I’m in full autumn ecstasy.

Later I’ll return to the piano to pick up where I left off yesterday learning this beautiful autumn waltz by @andreavanzo_composer. 🍂
Just by chance I happened to catch the very beginn Just by chance I happened to catch the very beginning and end of season at @cantine_marisa_cuomo this year. It was fun to see the grapes on the same vines just before harvest begins. Swipe to the right to see the same grapes back in May. Happy autumn!
Huge thanks to @italia_magazine for the lovely fea Huge thanks to @italia_magazine for the lovely feature of the second edition of Moon Southern Italy in the August/ September 2025 issue. Love the great description of @moonguides as well. Grazie mille! 🇮🇹
My heart might forever wander, but it’ll probabl My heart might forever wander, but it’ll probably always take a crosswalk. E si fermerà chissà…
This morning was a little cloudy when I went out f This morning was a little cloudy when I went out for my morning walk like I do most mornings in Amalfi. Down the coast, across the Gulf of Salerno, rays of light were shining right on the city of Salerno. I had set out with Salerno on my mind because it was there that 82 years ago today—on September 9, 1943—the Landing of Salerno began during WWII. My Grandpa was in the Army during the war - a lot of it in Italy. Yet he would never speak of where he was or what he did, and certainly had no desire to ever see Italy again after the war. While he probably wasn’t in that first landing in Salerno, he would have been somewhere in Italy, perhaps further south in Calabria or in Sicily. I always think of him during these days and wonder about those hard experiences he must have had in Italy. And very grateful for what he and so many fought for and endured. 

If you ever visit Salerno, south of the city there’s an Allied War Cemetery that is a moving and important place to visit. 🤍
Have I ever shared one of my favorite poems about Have I ever shared one of my favorite poems about Amalfi? It’s by the American poet Sara Teasdale (1884-1933). It’s simple and it’s heartbreaking - like first loves so often are. But I think about it often, especially on night walks in Amalfi. 

Night Song At Amalfi

I asked the heaven of stars
What I should give my love —
It answered me with silence,
Silence above.

I asked the darkened sea
Down where the fishers go —
It answered me with silence,
Silence below.

Oh, I could give him weeping,
Or I could give him song —
But how can I give silence,
My whole life long?
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