Love Locks in Salerno

While walking from the Porto Turistico to the town center of Salerno last week, I noticed something that I had missed while making this same walk many times before. Along the railing overlooking the water there were bunches of locks, like the small ones you might use to lock a bike chain or a locker.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Love Locks 2


Looking closer I saw that each one had the names of a couple written on it, often with hearts or other sentimental sayings. This must be the Salerno version of the age-old tradition of young lovers carving their names on trees. 


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Love Locks 1


I have to admit it is far better than the graffiti versions you find all over Italy painted on walls or scribbled on the back of bus seats.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Love Locks 3  

This doesn’t permanently damage anything, and the lock actually has a sweet sentiment to it. I don’t think I’d like to be the person that must occasionally come along and cut all these off. I would be wondering what happened with Luigi & Ilaria and how things were going with Marianna & Vincenzo.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Love Locks 4


Talking with people recently, I’ve learned that this is very popular in the Naples area, and also in Rome and Florence. I would love to see photos! Has anyone seen this outside Italy?

Tempting Tuesday: Morning Boat Trip from Salerno to Amalfi


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Salerno Port


As much as I love being out on a boat and watching the sun set along the Amalfi Coast, one of the most beautiful times to see the Amalfi Coast from the sea is early in the morning. The sun is bright and strong this time of year, but the cool evening breezes have blown away the humidity in the air. Everything seems just a bit clearer and brighter this time of year. Last week I took the boat from Salerno to Amalfi on one of those picture perfect days. Want to come along? Sure thing! I’ll be your guide and point out a few things along the way. Just make sure you bring a light jacket or sweater since the morning sea breeze can be a bit nippy. I’ll meet you at Salerno’s Porto Turistico, located in the center of teh city along the palm tree lined waterfront. In the mornings you see a mix of fishermen, locals on their way to work, and tourists heading off to Amalfi and Positano.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Salerno Porto Turistico


We’ll buy our tickets at those white tents with the pointy tops over on the left. There’s even a little bar down there if you missed your morning caffè or cappuccino and cornetto. Pretty soon we’ll board and leave the port of Salerno behind. It’s hard to look back, however, since the view ahead is so gorgeous! The first town we’ll see is Vietri sul Mare, the Amalfi Coast’s famous town of ceramics. This is where I stayed the first time I visited the Amalfi Coast with my Mom. See that big white building on the right clinging to the cliffs with the elevator down to the beach? That’s the Hotel Lloyd’s Baia where we stayed.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Vietri sul Mare


Next up is the fishing village of Cetara, with one of the most picturesque beaches on the Amalfi Coast. If you are looking for an authentic view of life on the Amalfi Coast, I highly recommend stopping and spending some time in this charming seaside village.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Cetara


Just around the corner from Cetara is an even smaller village called Erchie. What’s that you say? You’ve never heard of Erchie on the Amalfi Coast before? That doesn’t surprise me since I know many people who have lived here their entire lives and haven’t been to Erchie. If you’re looking for a quiet spot with a beautiful beach, definitely consider giving Erchie a visit.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Erchie


Coming around the cape after Erchie everyone heads to the front of the boat to take in this view. I see Ravello. Do you?


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Costiera Amalfitana 

There it is! This rocky ledge is the tip of the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, offering hands down some of the most spectacular views of the Amalfi Coast. That white villa just under the edge is known as the Villa Rondinaia, or the Swallow’s Nest, and it belonged to Gore Vidal until a number of years ago. No, I couldn’t imagine living there!


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Ravello


Looking to the left you can see how beautiful Atrani is in the morning sun. Do you see the way the bright colors of the buildings are reflected in the water? And just to tease you all, you can see my house from here, but I’m not going to tell you where!


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Atrani


Just around the corner from Atrani, we find beautiful Amalfi waiting for us. The beach umbrellas are starting to appear for another sunny day, or from Amalfi you can hop on a boat to Capri, Sorrento or Naples.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Amalfi with sailboat


But I wouldn’t blame you if you stayed right here in Amalfi for the day! Buon divertimento! Have fun!



Related Posts


Tempting Tuesday: Sunset on the Way to Salerno

Tempting Tuesday: The Cloister of Paradise in Amalfi

Tempting Tuesday: The Certosa di San Giacomo in Capri

Tempting Tuesday: Summer Boats on the Amalfi Coast

La Festa di San Matteo in the Rain

When I stepped off the boat in Salerno the rain was gently falling and I realized I was not at all where I thought I was. Perhaps it was due to the maltempo, or bad weather, but the boat I was on from Amalfi stopped at the Molo Manfredi instead of the Porto Turistico in Salerno. The problem being that the the former was on the opposite side of Salerno from my destination, while the Porto Turistico was just around the corner. “Oh well,” I thought, “At least I know where I’m going and it’s not raining very hard.” Ever the optimist, right? Well, in this case it turns out to have been a fortunate turn of events! After walking for a few minutes I found myself amidst a crowd of umbrellas. Hundreds and hundreds of umbrellas! Everyone was heading toward the San Matteo procession, and I realized I hadn’t arrived too late at all. It was perfect! I followed the crowds of umbrellas along the palm tree lined waterfront of Salerno toward the town center. When I heard the applause and music I new the procession was near and that it was time to make a dash in from the waterfront. I found a spot where I had a good view through the umbrellas, and I stopped to watch the beautiful procession go by. Want to watch along? Pull up a chair, and follow along with me. The best part is that you don’t even have to get out the umbrella!

The procession for San Matteo includes six statues, each one carried by a group of men and followed by a marching band. The first three represent three early Christian saints – San Gaio, San Fortunato and Sant’ Ante – whose relics are now held in the Duomo of Salerno. Here are the first two to go by – San Gaio and San Fortunato:

And then Sant’ Ante:

Here is the statue of Pope Gregorio VII, who is buried in the Duomo of Salerno:

The statue of San Giuseppe (Joseph) is very popular, and is greeted with applause from the crowds of faithful lining the streets and balconies:

And finally the beautiful San Matteo (the palm trees are an interesting touch, no?):

Followed by about a zillion umbrellas! I had to close mine and dodge through the crowds to get back down to the waterfront. I read in the newspaper the next morning that the procession was almost cut short because of the bad weather, but the Archbishop decided not to change it so as not to disappoint all of the faithful who had arrived to follow the procession and see it go by. I am very happy my unexpected walk across Salerno gave me the perfect chance to see this moving procession. I hope you enjoyed virtually watching it go by with me!

Tempting Tuesday: Sunset on the Way to Salerno


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Sunset over mountains


This week’s Tempting Tuesday has been abbreviated by strong storms and a colpo di fulmine (and I don’t mean that in the romantic way) that wreaked havoc on our phone and internet connections. Uffa! However, I will leave you with two tempting tidbits to savour. One is the photo above that I took on the way to Salerno last week. I love watching the sun set in the evenings behind the mountains on the Amalfi Coast, and from sea it is even more beautiful. More photos from the boat ride to Salerno to come! The second tidbit is that I did in fact make it to Salerno in time yesterday to see the festivities for San Matteo. Stop back by here on Ciao Amalfi tomorrow to watch the procession go by!

A presto!



Related Posts

Tempting Tuesday: The Cloister of Paradise in Amalfi

Tempting Tuesday: The Certosa di San Giacomo in Capri

Tempting Tuesday: Summer Boats on the Amalfi Coast

Tempting Tuesday: Touring Around Capri by Boat

Festa di San Matteo in Salerno




Today is the feast day of San Matteo, or St. Matthew, who is the patron saint and protector of the city of Salerno. The Cathedral of Salerno, which you can see in the photo above, is dedicated to San Matteo and holds some of (or a lot of, or all of – depending on who you ask) his relics. Whatever they have, it’s an important religious day for any church dedicated to San Matteo, but especially so for Salerno since they hold his relics and he is considered the protector of the city.


Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog San Matteo 2008


Last year I was able to see the elaborate procession through town and enjoy the festivities. While I’m off to Salerno in a matter of moments, I’m not sure I’ll make it in time to see the processions again this year. The threatening skies also mean they might be abbreviated due to the heavy rains and storms we’ve had the last few days. But here is a video I made last year of the procession carrying the large bust statue of San Matteo. I was surprised to see how many men it took to carry it. (Try to count them all!) The video isn’t terrific, but out of excitement I had actually climbed a streetlight pole in order to get a good view. There were so many people! You can get a sense of that at the end of this video:



If I make it in time, I’ll post photos and videos from this year. Enjoy!