Stormy Sunday Morning in Amalfi

Amalfi Coast Travel Stormy Weather Marina Grande Beach Amalfi

Watching the waves crash in Amalfi

There was a little break in the bad weather, but it came back in a dramatic way this weekend! The rain and wind storm Sunday morning is up there in the top 10 bad storms I’ve seen since moving to the Amalfi Coast. This was one of those close-the-shutters-put-on-the-red-sparkly-shoes-and-hope-the-house-doesn’t-blow-away sort of storms. Just before we went out to join friends for lunch the sky cleared and we made a mad dash to the car. Well, as madly as one can dash up steps while wearing Hunter rain boots. (Note: Don’t try that at home kids.)

Amalfi Coast Travel Rainy Days

These are the days made for rain boots!

The sky was blue but the sea was angry, sending in big waves crashing against Amalfi. Always a striking view! It was a strange mix to see blue skies and big waves together. Part of the parking area along the port was closed for, well, obvious reasons. You wouldn’t have wanted to park there yesterday!

Amalfi Coast Travel February Weather

Not where you’d want to have parked yesterday

After lunch, while we walked along the port, the sea had already calmed down and the afternoon was clear and calm. What a difference a few hours can make!

Spring Showers on the Amalfi Coast

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Weather April

A Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde Spring Day

This has been one of those days that just couldn’t make up its mind. Beautiful spring morning … sure thing! Sudden thunder and hailstorm with pounding down rain … why not? My husband called mid morning to say batten down the hatches (well, he didn’t really say that … but now I wonder if there’s a similar expression in Italian?) since he was on the boat to Capri that sailed through that big black storm. I did fix the outside shutters in place, unplugged all the electronics and took in the newly planted basil, parsley and herbs from the terrace. In the sunshine.

Sure enough … not long after I heard the thunder rumbling in the mountains and looked out to see dark clouds up above. The rain and grandine (small hail) weren’t far behind. As the cats slept (they miss just about everything that happens…) I peered out from the dark house (always a good idea to unplug things, see?) at the rain pounding down. Perfect for the garden, but I was glad I heeded my husband’s warning and brought the delicate new herbs in. Some fat snail has already sat on enough of the new basil plants, and they certainly didn’t need a hailstorm!

Now the sun is shining and, besides the shimmer of raindrops on the plants, there’s no sign of the sudden storm. Spring brings with it so many remarkable moments – just sharing one of them on the Amalfi Coast!

On a Sunny Saturday in April

Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Sunny Saturday April

Beautiful blues and greens in Amalfi on a sunny Saturday in April

It amazes me each spring just how quickly we can forget certain things. Dinner with the gas heater blazing by the table for warmth, the hot water bottle (or cat) sitting on my lap to keep my fingers warm enough to keep typing and that old “for the rain it raineth every day” attitude. But then one day I noticed that it has been several days since we’ve turned the heater on for dinner and my fingers are no longer so cold. It’s the sun – it makes us forget all those cold days of winter and look forward only to the warmth of spring.

This morning the sky was clear blue and after a busy week it was time to enjoy a walk in the sunshine. Much needed – both the break and the sunshine! Here’s what was happening in Amalfi this sunny Saturday morning in April.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Fishing Boat

Checking the nets

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Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog No Swimmer

Not sure where the swimmer for this gear got to ...

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Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Buses April

All kinds of buses in Amalfi - the season has started!

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Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog April Boats

Signs of spring in the harbor of Amalfi

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Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Amalfi Harbor

Gorgeous colors of spring looking toward the Amalfi harbor

I love the brilliant green of the sea today. That peculiar color is a leftover from the bad weather the last few days. Here’s hoping that spring sticks this time and that we’re done with winter until next year!

The End of the Season

Amalfi Lido delle Sirene Beach - Laura Thayer

The empty beach at Lido delle Sirene in Amalfi

Like clockwork, the end of October often brings with it a big storm and an abrupt change in the seasons. One day the beaches will be dotted with sunbathers enjoying the last warm autumn days while holding onto summer for as long as possible and then the next the beaches will be barren and covered with debris washed up from the rough seas. We’ve had a few intense storms pass over the Amalfi Coast recently, and they brought with them the official end of the summer season. During a break in the rainy weather last week, I was out and about and was struck by the sudden change. Where not long ago there were rows upon rows of beach chairs lining the rocky Lido delle Sirene in Amalfi, now the beach is empty for the winter.

Amalfi Coast Fishing Boat Harbor - Laura Thayer

Brilliant blues in Amalfi

The colors were brilliant, even more so after the recent storms. The rough sea had churned up a spectacular turquoise that only shows up after bad weather. Besides the Amalfitans coming and going, the walk along the harbor was quieter than usual. After seeing the empty beaches, the other indication that the season has ended is the empty port. The boats have been loaded up and driven away on big, traffic blocking trucks to safer spots for the winter. Even the docks that are lined with boats all summer long are pulled up to protect them from rough winter seas. They’ll become scenic perches for the seagulls for the rest of the winter.

Winter in Amalfi Harbor - Laura Thayer

The Amalfi harbor without boats lining the docks

Perhaps the strangest sight at the beginning of winter is seeing the Marina Grande beach, the largest in Amalfi, completely empty. If you’ve been swimming here during the summer months you’ll know just how odd it is to see it without the rows of beach chairs and candy colored umbrellas. It will look like this, besides the odd group of visitors having a picnic on a sunny day and those rare locals that swim all year round, until next spring.

October at Marina Grande Beach in Amalfi - Laura Thayer

All is quiet on Amalfi's Marina Grande Beach

The season has ended, but with it another has begun in Amalfi. While it’s different for everyone, for us this is the time for catching up after a busy season – for running all those errands that there simply hasn’t been time to do and for trying to find some much needed moments of relaxation at the same time. The Christmas holidays are around the corner, but for now I think I can use just a little bit of time overlooking an empty beach.

First Day of Autumn on the Amalfi Coast

Vintage Red Fiat 500 on the Amalfi Coast

Happy first day of autumn! Or, at least the calendar says it’s the first day of autumn. The weather is a perfect sunny and 75° with a lovely breeze today. Autumn? Well, not quite yet on the Amalfi Coast. September is often one of the most pleasant months of the year, with weather still warm enough to enjoy the beach and cool enough to actually enjoy the beach. But I do have autumn on the mind since I love the colors and watching the seasons change. Last year I shared photographs of autumn colors in Ravello and an autumn walk in Scala. Since I can’t do much yet with autumn colors, this lovely red vintage Fiat 500 will just have to do. That’s an autumn color, right? I walked around a corner in Scala yesterday morning and this little beauty was caught between the sun and shade of the sycamore trees. Not a leaf on the ground … not yet at least!

Happy autumn from the Amalfi Coast!