Wisteria in Positano

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Pergola

Under the wisteria pergola in Positano

Spring came late and all at once this year. The villages along the Amalfi Coast went straight from overcast wintry days to the buzz of activity rushing to prepare for the busy season seemingly overnight. The flowers loved all the rain and suddenly burst in bloom last month. Speaking of flowers, that’s precisely why I found myself in Positano one morning last month. With the blue sky and sunshine beckoning, I followed a whim and took the early boat from Amalfi to Positano to see the wisteria. And, my oh my, was it ever a show!

Ciao Amalfi Travel Wisteria Positano Ferry

Stepping off the ferry in Positano ... wisteria, here I come!

Positano is such a dreamy place and so very different from Amalfi. Even I feel like I’m on vacation when I step off the ferry and look up at the colorful houses stacked up the side of the mountain. With the restaurants overlooking the beach and the sun shining, there’s an air of isolation that adds so much charm when you’re on holiday. Boats come and go, but the rest of the world feels a million miles away. It was still pretty quiet when I stepped off the ferry and I didn’t meet too many people while heading to the center of the village just below the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Boughs

Cascading wisteria in Positano

Just at the base of the staircase where you start the climb up toward the church there is a wall that is covered with wisteria vines. The few earlier rising tourists who were out exploring were sitting around the steps or enjoying coffee at a restaurant nearby. The air was filled with the sweet and spicy scent of wisteria along with freshly brewed espresso and morning pastries from a bar just a few steps away.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Buca di Bacco

Wisteria vines meandering up the walls in Positano

The wisteria vines seem such a natural part of the buildings in Positano, like they’ve been delicately draped across the balconies and pergolas to make them even more captivating.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Blog Positano Wisteria

Wisteria cascading down a wall in Positano

The scent of these blossoms was simply intoxicating. I sat down nearby and breathed in deeply, wishing I could somehow capture and hold onto the scent. If you haven’t smelled wisteria before, it’s kind of like vanilla in that it is warm, sweet and spicy all at once. It somehow combines the sweetness of jasmine with the first sunshine after a gloomy winter into a delicate and spicy scent. It’s good for the soul, that’s what it is.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Detail

An intoxicatingly spicy and sweet scent - heavenly!

Close your eyes, take a deep breath and let your imagination carry you to Positano. The sea is moments away, the scent of wisteria fills the air and the sun is shining just for you …

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Li Galli Islands

Peeking over at the wisteria in Positano

I was so taken by the wisteria that it wasn’t until I got home and downloaded the photos that I realized this shot above had the Li Galli islands perfectly framed in the upper left. I tucked one of those purple blossoms right there into my notebook and smelled it all the way home.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Vines

Purple blossoms and red buildings

After tearing myself away from the wisteria blossoms near the beach I started to climb slowly up the narrow passageways of Positano. I could smell these incredible wisteria blossoms before I turned the corner! One deep red building was covered with wisteria, especially one balcony that must have been gorgeous from the inside. Just imagine how beautiful your house would smell!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Red Walls

A moment of balcony envy ...

I kept climbing and climbing until I reached a pretty little piazza with a gorgeous pergola full of wisteria blossoms. I happened to bump into a friend from Amalfi while wandering the streets with camera in hand and he asked what brought me to Positano. I pointed up to the pergola of cascading wisteria we just happened to be standing under.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Pergola

Under the wisteria pergola

“Ah, the glicine.” That’s the Italian word for wisteria. He seemed a bit perplexed why I would come from Amalfi to Positano to see the wisteria, but when I pointed out that it’s simply more beautiful in Positano even the Amalfitano had to agree. It really is something!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Brilliant Blue Sky

Wisteria blossoms against the brilliant blue sky

Every little village on the Amalfi Coast has its own character, and even the weather can vary noticeably from village to village. Positano is nearly always warmer than Amalfi throughout the year and significantly warmer than Ravello and Scala, which are located 350-400 meters above sea level. When I went to see the wisteria and found it nearly in full bloom in Positano it was just beginning to blossom in Amalfi and Ravello. There’s just something about the climate difference that makes it grow better and bloom incredibly in Positano.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Parking

Even the parking area in Positano is gorgeous!

I was happy that the sun was shining and I had the chance to catch the wisteria at its peak in Positano. The petals were just starting to gentle fall, scattering in the sea breeze like a spring snowfall. Last year I missed the best time to see the wisteria because the weather turned bad just at the moment they were at their best. Two years ago I went and had fun discovering the Wisteria Wonderland in Positano. That time I had a picnic and soaked up the sun on the beach, but this time I sat and enjoyed a cappuccino while working on the outline for an exciting project I hope to be working on soon.

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria Bar

Wisteria with your morning cappuccino? Yes, please!

Yes, this is a yearly tradition that I hope to continue. If you come to the Amalfi Coast in the early spring, the water may still be chilly for a swim and the villages still coming to life after the winter, but if you happen to catch the wisteria blooming in Positano it makes up for everything else!

Ciao Amalfi Coast Travel Positano Wisteria and Orchids

Wisteria and orchids in Positano

Like I said, it’s good for the soul.

This entry was posted in Amalfi Coast, Costiera Amalfitana, Nature, Positano, Things to Do, Travel Inspirations.

6 Comments

  1. Denise Givens May 26, 2013 at 01:40 #

    Hi Laura, the newsletter is great and brings back all of my memories of beautiful Amalfi – I’m still determined to get back one day! All the best to you!

  2. Laura May 26, 2013 at 16:40 #

    Hi Denise, so happy you enjoyed the newsletter and the photos! I hope you’ll be back to the Amalfi Coast very soon. Thanks for stopping by and commenting!

  3. Ann May 26, 2013 at 20:02 #

    Laura the newsletter is a great way to get excited about our visit in just under 4 weeks! Can’t wait event though today the weather has been very kind in the uk and at long last we have been able to sit in the garden and enjoy a BBQ.

    • Laura May 27, 2013 at 07:31 #

      Hi Ann, so happy you enjoyed the newsletter and it helped you get even more excited for your upcoming visit. Time to count down the days! Happy holiday weekend to you!

  4. Debra Kolkka May 27, 2013 at 12:22 #

    I love wisteria! I remember standing under a wisteria covered pergola in Positano…heaven!

    • Laura May 27, 2013 at 14:44 #

      Hi Debra, that’s just the word to describe it … heaven! :-)

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