About Laura Thayer

Writing, photography & tales from daily life on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, through the eyes of an American writer and art historian. Currently co-writing a novel with my mother, Sandra Thayer, set on the Amalfi Coast.

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I invite you to explore the pages of Ciao Amalfi to enjoy the beauty, history and traditions of the Amalfi Coast. Can't get enough of the Amalfi Coast? Me either! You can find Ciao Amalfi on Facebook and follow me on Twitter, too. Please email me directly for writing requests or just to say "Ciao!" While I love hearing from readers, please keep in mind that I may not be able to respond to all requests for information or travel planning help for the Amalfi Coast. Explore the archives of Ciao Amalfi for more travel tips and inspiration!
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The End of the Season

Amalfi Lido delle Sirene Beach - Laura Thayer

The empty beach at Lido delle Sirene in Amalfi

Like clockwork, the end of October often brings with it a big storm and an abrupt change in the seasons. One day the beaches will be dotted with sunbathers enjoying the last warm autumn days while holding onto summer for as long as possible and then the next the beaches will be barren and covered with debris washed up from the rough seas. We’ve had a few intense storms pass over the Amalfi Coast recently, and they brought with them the official end of the summer season. During a break in the rainy weather last week, I was out and about and was struck by the sudden change. Where not long ago there were rows upon rows of beach chairs lining the rocky Lido delle Sirene in Amalfi, now the beach is empty for the winter.

Amalfi Coast Fishing Boat Harbor - Laura Thayer

Brilliant blues in Amalfi

The colors were brilliant, even more so after the recent storms. The rough sea had churned up a spectacular turquoise that only shows up after bad weather. Besides the Amalfitans coming and going, the walk along the harbor was quieter than usual. After seeing the empty beaches, the other indication that the season has ended is the empty port. The boats have been loaded up and driven away on big, traffic blocking trucks to safer spots for the winter. Even the docks that are lined with boats all summer long are pulled up to protect them from rough winter seas. They’ll become scenic perches for the seagulls for the rest of the winter.

Winter in Amalfi Harbor - Laura Thayer

The Amalfi harbor without boats lining the docks

Perhaps the strangest sight at the beginning of winter is seeing the Marina Grande beach, the largest in Amalfi, completely empty. If you’ve been swimming here during the summer months you’ll know just how odd it is to see it without the rows of beach chairs and candy colored umbrellas. It will look like this, besides the odd group of visitors having a picnic on a sunny day and those rare locals that swim all year round, until next spring.

October at Marina Grande Beach in Amalfi - Laura Thayer

All is quiet on Amalfi's Marina Grande Beach

The season has ended, but with it another has begun in Amalfi. While it’s different for everyone, for us this is the time for catching up after a busy season – for running all those errands that there simply hasn’t been time to do and for trying to find some much needed moments of relaxation at the same time. The Christmas holidays are around the corner, but for now I think I can use just a little bit of time overlooking an empty beach.

3 comments to The End of the Season

  • Sandra

    AH! Amalfi…beautiful in every season. Great pictures…thanks for sharing!

  • Rashmi Hegde

    Ciao Laura,

    Just happened on your blog and it brings back memories of the most wonderful trip I have ever had – to the Amalfi coast! I was there the first week of October this year and boy was it warm! Thank you for sharing your life and pictures! Nice to hear from a native. You are lucky to live in that beautiful place, which we thought was even more beautiful than Positano! :-)

    Rashmi

  • Roz

    I love your photos of Amalfi. We were just there the third week in October and things seemed to be slowing down a bit then. I loved the more quiet pace and atmosphere! I am anxious to return again soon!

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