Road Trip: Mozzarella in Campania

Today we are going to take a road trip from the Amalfi Coast about an hour south to the city of Paestum, where you can see stunning Greek temples and a lot of water buffalo. Wait, water buffalo? While these less than lovely looking beasts certainly don’t rival the beauty of the Greek architecture nearby, one taste of the locally made mozzarella di bufala and you will enjoy a culinary moment nearly as divine! Last week I came across this entertaining article on the Los Angeles Times website called Campania region is where fresh mozzarella roams. A visit to Campania is not complete without enjoying at least a taste of the world’s best mozzarella. I wanted to share this fun and informative article, which has some great facts about mozzarella scattered throughout. I found these tidbits particularly insightful:

Mozzarella fact No. 1: Fresh mozzarella made from unpasteurized buffalo milk does not belong in the refrigerator. It is best kept at room temperature and optimally should be eaten within two days of production.

Ahem, yes. I can personally guarantee if you make the refrigerator mistake while living with a Campanian that you will only make this mistake once. Moving on . . .

Mozzarella fact No. 2: Caprese salad (mozzarella, tomatoes and basil) is delicious, and leftover cheese is fine for cooking. But when purists get their hands on a lump of real, fresh buffalo milk mozzarella, any accompaniment is superfluous.

True true! The tomatoes are definitely for the side when you have the best mozzarella. I am always fascinated by the table talk that goes on at family meals when there is mozzarella present. While I am still trying to pick up the subtle differences in flavor, it seems everyone has an opinion about whether it is too salty, not salty enough, a little too soft, too dense, or the ultimate compliment – buonissima!

Mozzarella fact No. 10: Eating the cheese promotes intelligence and good looks.

The author notes that although this hasn’t been proved it certainly does make people happy. And that I agree with!

The photos in this post were taken during a fun mozzarella tasting visit with my Mom at the Tenuta Vannulo, which the LAT article covers on the second page. Known in the area for making some of the best organic mozzarella and ricotta in Campania, Vannulo is a great way to finish a day in Paestum area. The fresh products are made daily and only sold on site in order to insure freshness and quality. While there you can explore the sprawling estate, see the approximately 500 buffaloes soaking up the Campania sun or munching away on a pile of feed, watch the mozzarella being worked and formed by hand in the dairy, and enjoy fresh tastings of mozzarella, ricotta, and buffalo milk yogurt and gelato in the tasting room and shop. (The apricot yogurt is particularly tasty!)

“What are you looking at?”

I wasn’t planning on mozzarella today, but I think I have to now! In case you are wondering, in my opinion the best mozzarella on the Amalfi Coast comes from a man named Ferdinando who has a small dairy in a fraction way up at the top of the city of Scala. I don’t have any contact information, but if you happen to find yourself in Scala, ask around for the mozzarella di Ferdinando and you will be shown the way. Deliziosa!

This entry was posted in Food & Drink, Paestum, Road Trip.


  1. Scintilla @ Bell'Avventura May 22, 2009 at 13:11 #

    Number one made me laugh. Putting a mozzarella in the fridge in Campania can be grounds for a marital breakdown!! I learn’t the hard way too.

  2. South of Rome May 22, 2009 at 15:16 #

    Too funny. I actually ate some for lunch today. I have to get all my mozzarella eating in! AND I’m so happy you mentioned Vannulo. That is one of my all time favorite spots when I head that way. Seriously, the buffalo milk gelato is fantastic!!

  3. Sandra May 22, 2009 at 19:01 #

    Thanks for the memories! I would love to share a fresh Caprese salad with you today. Yum! Ciao MOM

  4. Lola May 22, 2009 at 23:22 #

    We seem to be on the same page most of the time, Tenuta Vannulo was my last entry on my Italian blog FORCHETTINE!

    Ciao Laura, have a good weekend.

  5. Chef Chuck May 23, 2009 at 05:26 #

    Your making me hungry Laura, and I just had diner all ready!! Great post, I would like to run into Ferdinando one day! Grazie 🙂

  6. Laura May 24, 2009 at 08:56 #

    Ciao Scintilla! Hah! Glad to hear I was not the only one who learned this lesson the hard way. 🙂

    Ciao Karen! Too bad you don’t get a regular shipment of mozzarella with that shipment of wine, eh? Yes.. the gelato is great at Vannulo!

    Ciao Mom! A fresh Caprese salad sounds perfect for this hot day. My tomato plants are growing and now I have visions of mounds of tomatoes this summer. Can you come??? 🙂

    Ciao Lola! Oh my gosh… how do we do that? I hadn’t seen your post on Vannulo yet. For everyone here… be sure to check it out:
    Thanks Lola!

    Ciao Chuck! When you come here I will give you directions to find Ferdinando. Yum! 🙂

  7. Chef Chuck December 23, 2010 at 04:12 #

    Hi Laura, Got to you through Google search on Mozzarella in Scala, and your at the top!
    I could use those direction now, I will be staying in Scala ! We are very excited!
    All the best, Chuck

  8. Mike January 20, 2011 at 03:38 #

    Too funny Laura!
    I was thinking you would revel in the history of the Greek temples, but instead a lesson on Mozzarella cheese. You are becoming quite Italian!

    • Laura January 24, 2011 at 19:58 #

      Ciao Mike! So true … I’m appreciating the art in everything … especially the great food! 🙂

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